Uprated starter motor / alternator

[11admire]

Demon Tweeks also have both alternators and geared starters
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorspor ... otors/1943

I have found this
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html

[sgrant]

Ack, too late for me now, already ordered....does look good though....

[Westfield 129]

If you do a web search on Suzuki Samarai Alternator, or One Wire Racing Alternator, you will find a number of US suppliers for the part. Amazon can also be of use for these parts. These alternators are quite a bit smaller than the Lucas part, and will require fabricating a lower bracket (usually just a pair of inexpensive rod ends, threaded LH and RH, with a turnbuckle tube between). The smallest ones don't even require a back bracket attached to the block. They are just bolted to the water pump.

Prices for new units start at about $80 US. Rebuilds start at the same price, usually for an authentic ND. 60 Amp output, or more if you like.

All the US suppliers will ship to the UK, and the prices are reasonable if US Post Office shipping is used.

The rectifier in my Lucas is on the way out again (this time it lasted about 2000 miles). The new ND is on the shelf, awaiting the machinist to deliver the turnbuckle.

[sgrant]

So...at the risk of teaching grandma to suck eggs....

I managed to get rid of the control box entirely, which I was keen to do as it's just 50-year-old stuff that will eventually go wrong. On the off chance that someone else wants to do this as well, I thought it worth a brief post here.

Rather than follow the Moss instructions for wiring the alternator into the control-box loom, I just;
1. Disconnected the battery, fitted the alternator
2. Ran a 60A thinwall wire (it's a 40A alternator) from one of the two big terminals on the back of the alternator to the battery side of the solonoid.
3. Ran a wire from the small terminal on the back of the alternator to the warning light in the speedo. I cut the green/yellow wire, which ran back to the control box and crimped onto this. The other wire (white/red?) runs to the ignition.
4. Disconnected everything from the control box and cut all the wires (I've got the later control box with spade terminals, I guess on the earlier ones you can just unscrew the wires).
5. I crimped together the two brown wires that had gone to the "B" terminal on the control box. All the rest of the control box wires were then redundant and I just insulated them, tied them out of the way and put the control box on a shelf marked "Antiques".

That's it. Reconnected the battery and it then all works...

stephen