On the Yahoo Westfield_Eleven Site...

[Westfield 129]

There is a fellow over on the Yahoo Westfield_Eleven site who needs help with IVA on his new kit due to be delivered next month. Perhaps someone can help him, as I can't post there and direct him here, where he can get some informed people to point him in the right direction.

[jonclancy]

Message sent.

We're actually already in contact, but for everyone else who can contribute, here is Chris' question:

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "cr_coal" <seajayare@...> wrote:
>
> I have done a search but haven't been able to work out the answers to some questions i should have asked before I ordered up my XI kit and before I bought my first donor (which I have decided I want to restore rather than use for the XI)
>
> Looking at the IVA stuff on the dvla web site it looks like the XI won't use enough of the donor to get the points required and doesn't use the chassis of the donor which it looks like you have to do (I have also opted for the 5 speed gearbox which doesn't leave many of the point scoring parts to be used).... So can you keep the donor reg on XI or can you only get an age related plate or a Q reg?
>
> Can I use an old arkley kit as the donor and does that alter what happens with registration?
>
> As an alternative I was thinking of building only for track use. Is there a race series for similar cars and then do you need to do something different to an IVA? I was looking for something like the locost series but haven't found anything similar
>
> Sorry as I bet it's all been asked before but I can't find it!
>
> UK based and due to pick up from Westfield in early April 13.
>

[adamwilkinson]

If he wants to race/track it only then direct him towards the SRGTC website - this is where myself and Erictharg race our 11's.

[seajayare]

I have made it onto this Forum now!! Thanks to admin for sorting.

How come 2 forum?

Advance warning of more dumb questions to come

Chris

[erictharg]

Chris - glad you made it.

I'm not that familiar with the current IVA regs. Mine went through SVA in 2007, using all Midget running gear, with no problems. If the gearbox spoils your points tally don't tell them it's a 5 speed - fill out the form as if you used the Midget box. Unless you are very unlucky I'd guess they won't spot it, as gearboxes don't carry serial numbers.

As Adam mentioned, if you wan to race we will welcome you with open arms at SR&GT. Not sure where you are located but the first race of the season is Donington on the 23rd. I'll be there with my Eleven.

Good Luck.

[jonclancy]

seajayare wrote:

>
> How come 2 forum?
>

I make it four!!

This one,

the Yahoo Group,

Jan's Yahoo Group

and the WSCC XI Plus section.

Glad you got here, Chris!

[Westfield 129]

My group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Wes ... rsdrivers/

Caters mainly to those who have W11s or are building them. The photo gallery has a full build of an 11 from removal from the shipping crate to first drive, including the building of a custom exhaust header, and the installation of specific parts such as the double bearing hubs, twin brake master cylinders, pedal bias bar, engine assembly and SP components gear box. There are several builders on the site.

[erictharg]

Jan - help me out please. Can't recall if you've posted this before but I'm sure you got the data!
I've fitted twin 0.7" master cylinders with a bias bar but can you advise a sensible starting position for the bias? Brakes are stock drums with Peter May linings and stock discs with Mintex 1155 pads.
I'm guessing slightly in favour of the fronts would make sense. Realistically the first time I get to test them in anger will be qualifying for the first race in three weeks so anything to get me close would be useful. As opposed to adjusting on the day after qualifying and ending up with something unexpected for the race! Thanks.

[Westfield 129]

Set the bias bar so that when pushing the brake pedal, the force goes to your FRONT master cylinder FIRST. When you do this setup, you will see the front master cylinder be compressed, then the rear as the force is directed to the opposite cylinder. The majority of the force goes to the front master cylinder.

Then,do your drive test.

When you can lock the front brakes first, you can then take some of the force off front by screwing the pivot over, applying a little more force to the rear. When you have a comfortable setup, the fronts will still lock first, just before the rears. To get both ends to lock up will take a healthy push.

What you don't want is for the rear brakes to lock first. This compromises any directional stability, especially at corner entry.

Make your changes little by little, and it helps to properly adjust the rear drums so that they are working perfectly. It is best to remove the hand brake control rods from the drums so that an accurate adjustment can be made.

Tilton and Wilwood have bias bar instruction sheets on their websites as well to show how the bias bar should be adjusted. All bias setups are essentially the same, so the information is certainly useful.

I have mine set up with most of the braking going to the front. I have not yet finished the drive tests, but the brakes feel pretty good, and corner entry braking is stable. I am still sorting out the seals on the double bearing hubs, so I need to have nice, lubricant free brakes prior to fine tuning the bias.

I am using Porterfield pads in front, and stock linings in the rear.

Enjoy your now very precise braking!

[Westfield 129]

Hey Mike. I have not been posting on the Westfield_Eleven site for over a year. So, if you want to go there, you have my blessing.

BTW, how is your header coming? If you want to see precisely where to cut to make a Mini header into a Westfield header in only three cuts, (below the Y, just above the right angle bend, and at about the same place on the center branch) check out the pictures in the "Last XI" album, or...

Visit my site. I am in the process of breaking out some of the custom parts fabrication images from my build album, including the Maniflow Mini header conversion to a Westfield header, with a 26~27" length (said to be optimum), using only the tubing and bends that came with the header. It's pretty simple, and quick to do. Just three cuts, three welds. Quite a bit better than my first and second attempts as shown in the earlier Header album.

Tip: Use a Marmon clamp for your right angle from the collector to the muffler so that the pipe can be easily leveled. Don't use the three bolt flange that I used in the pictures. I am going to make a new header, probably with a jig, so that the Maniflow can be accurately cut and finished headers can be delivered without needing to be fitted to the chassis. Another tip, don't wrap the header. Weld a couple of studs to the center branch, and attach a heat shield. This will keep the header from cracking every couple of thousand miles or so, and keeps the carb cool.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Also it makes things a whole lot easier for the fabricator.

Oh, and I have a perfectly tuned Weber (two, actually), no flat spots, without any parts from Keith, and I didn't have to drill any holes. F2 emulsion tubes seem to work best when paired with 10.4:1 compression and higher. Keith's information was quite valuable in doing the setup. So good, that I didn't need the parts or the drills.