Small Alternator

[jonclancy]

A little bit of work with the multi-tool and file today.

I think I may ask Ian if he can mill the surface true - it's slightly on the wonk, and that tickles the OCD a bit.

You should see the amount of ally filings produced (on the kitchen table!!) as well.

Well, work stops play. But in the meantime, I can report that the standard fan-belt will fit and I'm thinking about where to attach the lower rod end.

Plenty of pics of the full process in my album here:

http://s94.photobucket.com/user/jonclan ... t=3&page=1

Edit - corrected that link. Apologies!

Also, I have had a look at the hand-brake rods. Mine were fitted over the panhard rod, but working the suspension didn't seem to make the rods actuate at all. I have temporarily re-routed below and slightly bent the rod to accommodate. There is still some contact, but again, no action on the rod.

Pics here:

http://s94.photobucket.com/user/jonclan ... t=3&page=1

Comments gratefully receivedl!

Cheers

Jon

[Westfield 129]

I used a mill for the first conversion, but found that it was difficult to clamp down. It was actually easier to do the job by hand.

The second, I used a cut off tool to take off the first chunk, and filed it flat by hand.

With a caliper. and your file, you can get the surface of the top bracket cut flat enough. The cut that I show in my pictures was done by hand, finished with a hand file, and a power rotary file.

You will have to cut a little farther back than you think, as the entire bracket has to clear the water pump tab to keep the alternator in alignment. I used the rotary file for that.

My hand filed piece looks machined, and the alternator sits perfectly aligned on the engine. I have since done 3 more of these. It takes a little time, but it is not hard to get a flat, true (enough) surface.

[Westfield 129]

The brake rods should not touch the Panhard Rod if you lever the brake rod forward of the Panhard rod at the right hand brake. A little bend forward does it. The cross over point will be back, near the Panhard rod axle mounting. The rod can't touch there, as that point is too close to the drum brake lever pivot.

In any case, the brakes wont operate on their own. My early car had the rods installed beneath the Panhard Rod, and never had a problem or contact.

[jonclancy]

It appears that M8 x 40, part-threaded bolts are a good starting point for fitting the alternator lug to the engine.

I used a couple of layers of 8mm heatshrink to sleeve the bolt to the mounting hole. The attached pic was taken after a trial fitting, so there is a small amount of scraping to the outer layer of heatshrink. Use a non-aggressive lubricant to fit (silicone or similar) and it's snug, yet the bolt turns fine.

Just need to finish off the alternator body and work out the turnbuckle size/mounting points. And re-jig the wiring.

I reckon you could complete this job in an hour or so if you get your ducks in a row.

Edit to add - there is around 15mm from the back of the waterpump lug to the square boos on the cylinder head. This is what I'm aiming to thin the alternator lug down to. That's 7mm above the cast flashing line on my alternator (Denso).

Having remeasured, it looks like M8 x 45mm would get the nyloc into safety, including a washer.

Parts are on order...

[Westfield 129]

I use the closest fit fractional bolt, (3/8" fine) which may require a slight drilling of the alternator and the water pump tab eliminating any need for tape that will loosen and the water pump tab in some cases. That way, you only need to carry a 9/16" and 1/2" wrench out to the car if you want to do a general adjustment or bolt tightening on the engine. All fasteners match. Also, I would go with fine thread. I have been running this for many years, without problems. The water pump tab is very robust. It wont crack. Remember,the alternator is half the weight of the old unit, and is nicely balanced and stabilized when mounted.

While most of my cars here in the US are metric (and it is my favored system), I went to great trouble to make everything on the new Westfield kit fractional (My early car was already metric free), so that I would not have to carry a second set of tools, and so that fastener choice would be simplified on that particular chassis.

I also drilled and tapped the lower mount tab so that the fractional bolt would thread in, eliminating a fastener (lock nut) in the installation.

[jonclancy]

If I could get hold of a part-threaded 3/8 x 1.3/4" bolt, I could use that. Trouble is it's a limited size on eBay here.

[Westfield 129]

No large hardware stores, auto parts emporiums, or bolt/fastener dealers?

Any industrial supply, or even aircraft supply, like Aircraft Spruce & Specialty or any other aircraft supply would have precisely what you need. AN-6 is your starting point. They will even sell you just one, and it will be a proper bolt.

[biggles]

Is 3/8 a nominal size or is that the actual diameter you need? If so I will have a rummage tomorrow morning at my Folks' place. My Dad has never thrown away any fasteners that could be reused since he started fiddling with cars in about 1955!

[Westfield 129]

Bolt size: 3/8-24. 3/8" diameter. .37" Take any standard bolt gauge with you as this will have thread and diameter, speeding your search (some bolt companies will give these away for free).

This is a pretty common size in automotive use, and available in "Grade 8", which is better than the usual "Grade 5" automotive type. Wrench size is usually 9/16".

[biggles]

Jon I have a bolt for you if you want it. 1 3/4 long 3/8 part threaded with washer and nut. Not a nyloc as the bolt was probably made before nylon had been discovered!

PM me if you want me to post it.....
Tim