I haven't seen that this has been discussed before, but the two spacers that must be 'inserted under the rubber gaiters' of the steering rack the 'Build Guide' glibly instructs! Well call me naive, but easier said then done when a) you actually need to remove the track rods to get the spacers on, and b) your outer ball housing cannot be removed because it is circular and smooth with no flats on it to aid removal!
My question therefore is: Can I use jubilee clips instead of the provided steel spacers? Seems a bit 'heath robinson' but I don't see another option. By the way I am using the thin steel rack (abet a new one from Moss). Here are some photos of my ball housing so you can see what I am describing:
Sorry as per usual the site will not allow me to add in a photo, but you can hopefully visualise what it looks like...
All suggestions welcome!
Thin steering rack
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Re: Thin steering rack
Morris,
No problem using jubilee clips - I split some water hose cut to the lengths Westfield state in the manual and held it in place with them.
Jon
No problem using jubilee clips - I split some water hose cut to the lengths Westfield state in the manual and held it in place with them.
Jon
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Re: Thin steering rack
Thank you Jon (again
)
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
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Re: Thin steering rack
As usual, I might do this a bit differently.
I would not use the skinny rack, but rather install the "Fat Rack" which is substantially quicker ratio. Then, I would not bother with the rack stops as I have had my car without them for over a decade without problems (running wider 185/70/13s).
I just do't like the idea of loose parts (or parts that can come loose) inside the rack, and the extra travel is not really a problem as, depending on which wheel/tire you use, there will be some contact inside the bonnet by the wheels inside the fully enclosed body. Even with the rack stops. After a few U turns, you will know how far to turn the wheel to avoid contact. I would just skip the rack stops unless you feel, after driving the car, that you absolutely need them.
The skinny rack is sort of a sedan piece, to reduce effort when the larger, heavier Spitfire 1500 engine was installed in the last Spridgets. The W11 feels much better with the fat rack, which is available new from Moss, but you will have to find a set of original fat rack mounts from a Spright 1275.
I have done all the cars with the fat rack, and replaced the skinny rack on the US press demo car with a fat rack. Reviews were quite positive.
I would not use the skinny rack, but rather install the "Fat Rack" which is substantially quicker ratio. Then, I would not bother with the rack stops as I have had my car without them for over a decade without problems (running wider 185/70/13s).
I just do't like the idea of loose parts (or parts that can come loose) inside the rack, and the extra travel is not really a problem as, depending on which wheel/tire you use, there will be some contact inside the bonnet by the wheels inside the fully enclosed body. Even with the rack stops. After a few U turns, you will know how far to turn the wheel to avoid contact. I would just skip the rack stops unless you feel, after driving the car, that you absolutely need them.
The skinny rack is sort of a sedan piece, to reduce effort when the larger, heavier Spitfire 1500 engine was installed in the last Spridgets. The W11 feels much better with the fat rack, which is available new from Moss, but you will have to find a set of original fat rack mounts from a Spright 1275.
I have done all the cars with the fat rack, and replaced the skinny rack on the US press demo car with a fat rack. Reviews were quite positive.
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Re: Thin steering rack
There is a set of Fat Rack mounts on The ‘Bay right now.
For those going FAT, don’t forget you need the early steering arms, too. Part numbers, IIRC, BTA 648 and BTA 649.
The ACA part numbers are for the thin rack, and have a different geometry if you are searching them out on eBay.
Some sellers mis-list, so check the part numbers carefully rather than take their word for it!![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
For those going FAT, don’t forget you need the early steering arms, too. Part numbers, IIRC, BTA 648 and BTA 649.
The ACA part numbers are for the thin rack, and have a different geometry if you are searching them out on eBay.
Some sellers mis-list, so check the part numbers carefully rather than take their word for it!
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_e_wink.gif)
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Re: Thin steering rack
I've already shortened my track rods (on a new thin rack) so I'm committed to using this one at least initially.
Re spacers, I agree on the risk of introducing potentially loose items into the steering system. I'm using standard size wheels and tyres and will use spacers for the sake of the IVA. It does appear that with a standard setup the short spacer is not required and the long spacer can be replaced with the short one with no bodywork contacting issues.
Re getting the spacers on, provided I can get hold of some 35 mm diameter nylon 6 bar, I'll bore it out, slit it and use some heat to open and close it back over the rack.
Re spacers, I agree on the risk of introducing potentially loose items into the steering system. I'm using standard size wheels and tyres and will use spacers for the sake of the IVA. It does appear that with a standard setup the short spacer is not required and the long spacer can be replaced with the short one with no bodywork contacting issues.
Re getting the spacers on, provided I can get hold of some 35 mm diameter nylon 6 bar, I'll bore it out, slit it and use some heat to open and close it back over the rack.
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Re: Thin steering rack
Good point on the steering arms.
It is possible to get a set of rod ends that will fit both the late arms and the fat rack, but I never did the research and have no useful part numbers. It's easier just to get the early arms to go with your early fat rack.
If you go fat rack, get a set of the steering arms and new rod ends as well.
It is possible to get a set of rod ends that will fit both the late arms and the fat rack, but I never did the research and have no useful part numbers. It's easier just to get the early arms to go with your early fat rack.
If you go fat rack, get a set of the steering arms and new rod ends as well.
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Re: Thin steering rack
Regards the use of jubilee clips as rack stops , there have been three or four previous threads advocating their use . They have been in place on
my car for the last seven years with no problems .
my car for the last seven years with no problems .
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Re: Thin steering rack
I've just swapped over from a thin to fat rack. I'd bought all the parts over the last couple of year and, on finding that I couldn't adjust the toe to in rather than out, I decided I might as well fit it. It was actually easier that I was expecting, I removed the bonnet and radiator top mount to get access and it took me a couple of hours. I found that both side of the rack and track rods needed 10-12mm off each rather than the 5-6mm in the build guide and the steering arms and track rod thread needed fettling to clear the alloys. I just need some dry weather to check out the improvement and make sure it points straight.
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Re: Thin steering rack
I'll be very interested to hear your direct comparison of the two racks.
I've fitted a thin rack as that's what came with the donor MG.
Morris.
I've fitted a thin rack as that's what came with the donor MG.
Morris.