Winged Sump

[Westfield 129]

Part of the problem is that the new sump is shallower than the original. This evidently may cause problems with the pickup and its location. A fence may be needed to hold the oil around the pickup. This may work better than a trap door.

I never had a problem in getting the plunger out of the oil pressure relief valve. It usually follows the spring. You can get it to stick to some thick grease. I don't think that super glue will work.

Mini Mania has an adjustable oil pressure setup that just screws in with a spring. I am sure that this is available in the UK as well.

Worried about the distributor?

Put the engine at TDC, with the distributor rotor on #1. The gear stays in the engine, and the distributor only goes in one way. Just line up the drive tab and you are set. Really, the distributor can be taken out and replaced at will, as it only fits one way so long as you don't disturb the gear. No, you really can't get it off by 180º. The tabs are offset.

[jonclancy]

Took some time back in the garage today.

The plunger in my spare engine came out on the end of a magnetic tool. Slid out perfectly. It's steel, of course.

I need to remove the dizzy to get to the relief valve. To remove the dizzy, I need to remove the cap. To remove the cap, I need to rotate the dizzy. Thats why I need to mark the position so my timing stays put. Yep, the offset dog makes re-insertion fool-proof (as long as the drive gear is left in place, which of course it is).

Now, it so happens that my plunger is stuck!! I have tried a few techniques, but it is stuck solid. The block is very cold, mind, so I think I'll try getting the whole lot warmed up tomorrow and see if that frees it off enough to withdraw it. I have the ball and matching spring ready to go!

If you guys couldn't get the winged sump to work, Adam, then we have our work cut out! But the first step is getting the plunger sorted and see if that sorts the fluctuating oil pressure.

[Westfield 129]

The stuck plunger would explain your oil pressure problem. I think that your sump should work just fine once you correct the problem.

Try using a rust breaker, like Maltby's or Liquid wrench. Parts cleaner spray might also break the valve loose, along with the heat. It should come out with the magnet. Running the engine with a detergent additive might also help to free up the valve.

[Westfield 129]

It may be possible to put the distributor into a better position by switching around the leads and re timing the engine. This is much easier to do if you are not using a vacuum advance.

It only takes a minute to set the timing if you have eliminated the oil line from the filter housing to the engine block (as for an oil cooler installation). Everything is easy to get to, even on the RHD engine installations.

[adamwilkinson]

To be fair, our winged sump works when driving normally just not as well under extreme conditions (i.e. racing).

Looking back at your photos, i'd suggest a horizontal baffle (and I don't mean a windage tray) over the front half to help stop the oil 'sloshing' (technical term) up the front under braking. You may need to experiment with adding a slot in the middle of this horizontal baffle (say half the length of the baffle) to allow oil that has collected on top of the baffle to return to the bottom of the sump.

[jonclancy]

Now we're making progress!!

The front, flat baffle has been mooted and it seems like an excellent idea. Forward slosh is definitely there, and braking produces the highest G in my car!

It struck me this morning that the plunger is not fully seated as I get oil seeping out when I crank the engine. I'll try all the suggestions to free the plunger, but will first try very gently to re-seat it with my brass drift and make sure the threads and housing are clean.

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. Keep any thoughts you have coming!!!

[jonclancy]

Just spent a while on the XI. The plunger did drift back into its seat. Warmed up the car and used a thin pipe to administer sone "Shock and Unlock". The bottom line is, no joy.

The plunger is well and truly stuck.

So, I've given it a bath of penetrative, popped the cover back on (sans spring) and will have a look tomorrow to see if it has freed up at all.

Next step would be to drill and tap the plunger. Using a suitably-sized socket as stand-off (can't think of the correct term), winding a bolt into the tapped plunger will draw it out.

Swarf control is important! Drill in stages, withdraw tap frequently to clean and reply on the oil filter downstream to protect the rest of the engine. Not the best plan I've come up with, but I'm starting to run out of ideas, and really don't want to have to take the engine out to get this sorted.

Any other suggestions gratefully received.

[cs3tcr]

Jon,
Have a look here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of111.htm

Even though its a write up for the B-series engines, the oil pressure relief valve plunger is the same part.

Rod

[adamwilkinson]

This is why everyone using the plunger style relief valve should bin it and replace with the ball bearing version

[jonclancy]

Too true!

Off to find a tapered tap... Great steer, Rod!

Pity I'm not near a Harbor Freight for a couple of weeks!

Thanks guys!