Toyota 4AGE into Eleven will go (one way or another)

[Westfield 129]

That's interesting... Especially considering that we balance the engines because the factory doesn't... and we use, for the most part, OEM clutch units, which are factory balanced to the factory's balance factors. You are claiming that a factory balanced clutch bent your crank? HOW???

And, when we balance the engine we just make it perfect, to the factory's optimum design number. All the reciprocating parts are the same weight, the cranks are uniform, with optimum balance. The balance factors are corrected (if necessary) to the best design requirements. Changing the clutch (assuming that it was to factory specs) would have NO bearing on this as far as causing problems that could damage the engine, unless the clutch was defective, or improperly installed.

Or, there was some problem with the crank and lubrication, or other damage that would result in a bent crank.

I am not saying that it didnt' happen, but I am wondering how it could happen with a proper clutch, rebuilt or new. They are all "balanced". Even your stock, unbalanced engine is balanced, and often quite well.

Balancing doesn't make the engine anything but, well, balanced perfectly to factory optimum standards. Changing the clutch, or even the damper (given it was in new condition), would have little effect, and would not take the assembly out of tolerance, or cause a crank to bend.

If you worry about your clutch being out of balance, send it to the balance shop with YOUR flywheel. That way, the clutch is balanced to your engine's rotational mass, and not just balanced to factory specs.

[erictharg]

OK - brain fart over. Life is too short not to do things you really want to! Back to plan "A" and putting the 4AGE in the Eleven, to race in Class C of SR&GT. F**k it. Question to you guys is should I try to sell the A Series engine complete or split it?
Personally, as a buyer, I don't trust anyone out there to have built a decent engine so if I bought anything complete first thing I'd do is strip it down. Gut feeling is that I'll get more by selling the bits than the engine complete. Only thing I need off it is the 45DCOE. And then a second one! The gearbox should get reasonable money. Perhaps I should list both on our forum? Anyone got a serviceable 45 DCOE?
Brrmm, brmm! Mummy, will I ever get better? Anyone remember Ripping Yarns?

[Westfield 129]

Sell the engine complete, but save your carb if you like it. Carbs are available all over, but complete, built BMC A engines are not.

You kow that as soon as you take it apart, some guy is going to come along and say "if it was only assembled..."...

I am sure that you can find a buyer quickly. Lots of guys want a hot A series for their Spridget or W11 project.

List the engine and its parts. I am sure that some fellow with a Spridget or W11 project needs a fresh engine or long block assembly, ready to go. You can easily do a cylinder leak down test to make a buyer feel more comfortable, even if the engine is out of the car.

[Splat]

Uppingham School circa 1984. Dickie B (geography master) set up the video for us to watch something thrilling (probably about the development of the West Midlands conurbation). Instead we were treated to Tompkinsons School Days. As we wore a uniform of a black jacket, worcstered charcoal trousers, white shirt and black tie because we were still in mourning for Queen Victoria (and I'm not kidding!) I'm to this day still not sure if this was a satire or a documentary piece.....

[Westfield 129]

Documentary piece. Definitely.

[jonclancy]

I'm not sure if I actually follow the above...

What HP are you running, Charles?

[Westfield 129]

And what parts are you using? Cylinder head, Crank, Rods, Rockers?

[erictharg]

Uppingham school only a few miles from me in Oundle. Weird. The whole public school things,that is! I took (or was taken down - I had no choice at the age of 11!) the middle path - Bradford Grammar. Hey ho...

Still, engine spec as below, for those who are curious:

1330 (+060”) Midget A series engine. Balanced and Tuftrided crank; Stock balanced rods with ARP bolts (replaced every strip down - never re-used); Omega cast pistons; Centre main strap; Baffled Peter May sump; Vernier duplex timing set; MED 649+ billet cam; Romac crank damper; MED Clubman race head with 37mm inlet and 30mm exh valves, bronze guides, double springs, 23cc chamber volume giving approx. 11:1 CR; MED 1.5:1 roller rockers;; Maniflow 7” big bore inlet manifold to suit Weber or Dellorto carb (carb not included); Aldon race distributor and ignition system; Lightened Midget flywheel w. ARP bolts; std clutch cover and AP Racing centre plate. Early A Series top cover with breather in addition to stock timing cover breather. 121.5HP at 7250 rpm (Northampton Motorsport dyno) and power still rising at that speed - I just didn't want to rev beyond 7250. Two seasons of racing under its belt (maybe 12 hours total running) since last refresh (new cam, followers, bearings and rings). Always kept to 7250 max redline – usually no more than 7000. Does not burn significant amount of oil; Oil pressure perfect (60+psi at anything much over idle; 30psi at idle when warm). Always run on Total Quartz 10-50 full synthetic racing oil. Cylinder head recently removed and checked. Guides were fine and seats were re-cut. Somewhat lumpy below 3000 rpm but flies above that! Will just about run smoothly at 3000 light throttle (50 mph ‘ish)cruise
Optional: Big bore Maniflow Mini LCB exhaust manifold modified to fit the Eleven.

I guess if I sold the engine as a whole I should include the carb as it has been jetted on the dyno to suit the rest. I figure the parts are worth £1000 plus on EBay, so would be looking for similar amount for the whole motor.

[Westfield 129]

That motor, with the parts inventory you list, including the carburetor, is at least $4000 here in the US (parts and about $1,200 machine work if the block was offset bored, blueprinted, deck height zeroed, and cylinder head refreshed), maybe more with the baffled sump. £1000 seems like a bargain. Here, the price for a similar APT engine is around $12,000 USD.

My engines are similar i specification, with a parts inventory cost of around 4500 USD, including the machine work and an alloy flywheel. I find this interesting as I purchase most of the parts in the UK directly.

Sounds as though you have a bargain.

[jonclancy]

Yep, for a grand, that's a very good deal.

I paid more in recent parts/work etc for my engine and won't be anywhere near the power you're producing (but it was built as a road engine).

For someone looking to have a go at racing, there's a lot to like!! And if I had a spare grand...