Toyota 4AGE into Eleven will go (one way or another)

[erictharg]

Well, the weeks have passed and no way would my ECU see the output from the Denso distributor pick up. ECU back to the guy who built for adjustments and checks twice. And I was getting really fed up of forever having to hook up a laptop every time I did anything, and being presented with a hundred different settings and variables just trying to get a spark. And the idea that if it ever went wrong I couldn't fix it really stung me. So last week I dug out the carb manifold I got with my pile of bits and looked and measured. Next thing I know I've removed all the throttle bodies, and sawn the carb manifold in half and worked out what I need to extend and raise it to miss the chassis rail and pedal box. Ripped out all the HP fuel system I'd only just installed, removed the ECU and all of those bloody wires. Looking much better! This is one example where I should have followed my heart and not my head. I only went with the throttle bodies because they cleared the chassis. So, I now have pair of shiny new 45 DCOE's waiting for the manifold to come back from welding (Monday hopefully). Getting a spark is still proving a little challenging. Bought an Aldon Amythest ignition module which will provide not only a spark but also a programmable advance curve. However, it too would not see the feeble Denso reluctor pick up output. Seems I would have to use the Denso ignition amplifier if I wanted to have it work. Getting complicated again. So I found an spare new Lumention Optronic pick up in my box of bits, and have gutted the distributor. Need to have an aluminium adapter machined so I can mount the Lumenition chopper / rotor on the distributor shaft and that should give me a nice simple clean signal to the Amythest unit. Aldon confirm that the Lumentition sensor will work fine. Just need a resistor in line with the 12V feed to it to drop the voltage for the LED.
All being well I will have it fired up by the end of this next week. Then Mot'd and get some easy miles on the engine before the rolling road. A new glimmer of light appears at the end of the tunnel!

[Splat]

So, in summary:

It's a Westy Eleven,

KISS

[erictharg]

Roller coaster ride for sure!

[Westfield 129]

KISS indeed.

[erictharg]

Got a spark Friday. The Lumenition setup works fine. Had to do some epoxy putty work on the inlet manifold to smooth some of the transitions. Also had to have the faces skimmed to take out distortion from welding. Spent today shaping the epoxy and mounting the carbs. Then came the moment of truth. Cranked and pumped the carbs. A couple of coughs but wouldn't run. Checked the distributor was not 180 deg out - it wasn't. Re-checked the static timing and found the Lumenition set up triggers when the chopper re-establishes the light to the trigger - not when it cuts it off. So timing some 50 deg retarded. Moved the chopper around and at last it runs. Poor idle (go figure - 36 mm chokes, super light flywheel and 285 deg cams!) but when blipped sounds on the ball. However, a lot of bubbles coming into the header tank. It maybe just that the system is bleeding itself through (I hope), or else it is pressurising. Too late to do any more so will try again later. Just good to hear it run. It lives again! Motivated once more.

[jonclancy]

Excellent news, Charles!!!!

[erictharg]

So the pressurising did not magically go away. Big surprise. But I did torque the TRD MLS gasket down twice (had to remove the head after the first time to re-cut the seats). Should have known better - idiot. Pulled the head today and fitted a stock spec composite gasket and all seems well. To be fair it's not that much more hassle than it was on the A Series. Maybe 4 hours work. The cams have to come out to get to the head studs. Once I was happy I also sorted a throttle linkage out. Can't beat bicycle gear cable and a fab'd pulley. For some reason the alternator is not charging so that need sorting (new Denso mini item) and I need to re-locate the brake fluid reservoirs to clear the air filter. But it feels like I'm moving forward now.

[Westfield 129]

You might want to check out Cometic head gaskets. They are stainless steel/carbon/Kevlar composite and work quite well. Also available in several different thickness as they are stainless steel shim type. Lots of compression ratio choices. A high quality product, but a bit expensive, at around $130 USD. However, they are really useful at solving leak and too high compression, too low octane problems.

Another thing you can do is to acquire a block tester. These are not expensive, and are very simple. Consisting of a tube and a rubber fitting so that it fits your radiator filler, these will hold a fluid that changes from blue to yellow if there are combustion gasses being pumped into the cooling system, and will show bubbles if the system is being pressurized. Around $25USD. i always keep one around to find head gasket leaks. While these are supposed to find leaks immediately, I often find that the test has to go for an extended period of time to find small leaks. Very useful tool, right along with a cylinder leak down tester and a pressure brake bleeder from Motive Power.

You need a 12V from the switch and the 12V from the alternator to the battery for the system to work (if you have a three wire alternator and connector). The third wire is for the warning light. If you accidentally connect the 12V from the switch to the light lead, you blow out the regulator warning light circuit, and the light wont work (off permanently). but the alternator will still put out 14.5 or so Volts. Connecting the 12V switched wire to the light is a pretty common error. All the more reason to have a volt meter in the panel (as you wont have to replace the $60 USD regulator circuit). Doesn't matter if the light doesn't work... You have a gauge. Another problem is often the alternator ground or engine to ground strap. I have found that the tiny forklift style alternators work beautifully, whether you get a $250 Hitachi or Denso, or a $100 copy.

My experience with long duration, high lift cams, light flywheels and carburetors has been largely positive. You can get a good idle at around 1200 RPM, and instant throttle response if you get your carburetors right. Anyway, enjoy the lumpy idle. Very cool.

An Excellent Project. Enjoy the drive.

[erictharg]

Alternator easily sorted. It's a compact Denso item with the three pin connector. I'd misread the wiring guide as connections to the plug, not to the alternator. So had the light going to the battery sense. I wouldn't mind but I did exactly the same when I fitted one to the A Series. Idiot! Re-located the brake fluid reservoirs today. Need a 48mm hole saw for the air filter back plate. Plus some fresh brake fluid. All being well I can get those jobs done Thursday and have a first short drive Friday. I'll try to get some photos now it's close to completion. I'm entered in the Oundle Classic sprint on the 28th Dec. It's more of a display event to liven up the holidays, with a gentle 400 yard run through town but something to aim at. Looks a bit Mad Max with the cam pulleys poking through the bonnet!

[erictharg]

First drive. Dropped the car back onto the ground this morning. Pushed it outside and ran up the engine. Took it for a quick drive around the marina where my workshop is. Not good - would not run at anything much above idle. WTF? Just died at more than the slightest amount of throttle. Couldn't even keep it going on the accelerator pump. Not ignition, so what then? Sat and looked and realised another "cock up" was the likely culprit. When I drilled out my air filter backplate I'd missed the two big holes that that are needed to keep the carb vents open. Doh! Added those and bingo! All seems well. Back on with the body sections and a quick blast up the road showed everything to be much more like it. I do have an oil leak at the front of the cams that could be the cam cover or the cam oil seals, so ordered two new seals and will delve into that tomorrow. Not unusual on a 4AGE apparently. Car feels very different not just because the engine immediately has more torque but with the very heavy clutch (spring is way heavier than I need) and the gearlever being further back and very short shift it all feels very heavy but direct. You also feel more of the driveline vibration as the engine and 'box are pretty stiffly mounted. I'll add a stop on the clutch pedal for starters and see how it goes. Might try to get it MoT'd Christmas eve! Merry Christmas and a Happy Racing 2016. I hope.