Just a quick look for a tad of help - I am using the Westfield wiring loom and would like some good pics of wiring routes connections
Areas are
Dash board wiring
Voltage stabiliser I have an alternator car and wiring to this is not clear as I have a modern unit to replace oringinal
Mark
Wiring
-
Si Richards
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:58 pm
Re: Wiring
Hi Mark
I have loads of pictures which I will post in a moment just trying to pick out some that will hopefully help. In case you haven't got the wiring diagram here is a link:
http://www.dogs-agility.com/Westy%20XI% ... 20Page.htm
Ill get some pictures up in a minute if you need others feel free to give me a call on: 07793 130491 and I can try and help (It was a while back that I did mine so its not that fresh in my mind
)
Cheers Si
I have loads of pictures which I will post in a moment just trying to pick out some that will hopefully help. In case you haven't got the wiring diagram here is a link:
http://www.dogs-agility.com/Westy%20XI% ... 20Page.htm
Ill get some pictures up in a minute if you need others feel free to give me a call on: 07793 130491 and I can try and help (It was a while back that I did mine so its not that fresh in my mind
)Cheers Si
Visit my Westfield XI build site: http://www.dogs-agility.com/westy_11_page.htm
-
Si Richards
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:58 pm
Re: Wiring
Hi Mark
The Alternator part of the wiring does require some terminating and joining which due to my miss spent youth (too many beers) the old brain has a poor information retention zone and I cant remember off the top of my head which was which but I spoke with Mark at Westfield and he explained what to do.
These pictures will hopefully help (it will only let me do 3 at a time so will do the other one below)
Cheers Si
The Alternator part of the wiring does require some terminating and joining which due to my miss spent youth (too many beers) the old brain has a poor information retention zone and I cant remember off the top of my head which was which but I spoke with Mark at Westfield and he explained what to do.
These pictures will hopefully help (it will only let me do 3 at a time so will do the other one below)
Cheers Si
- Attachments
-
-
-
Visit my Westfield XI build site: http://www.dogs-agility.com/westy_11_page.htm
-
Si Richards
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:58 pm
Re: Wiring
Cheers
Si
Si
- Attachments
-
Visit my Westfield XI build site: http://www.dogs-agility.com/westy_11_page.htm
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Wiring
There are pictures of the wiring on my forum album at WestyXIownersbuildersdrivers.
Wiring seems to be a scary topic for many builders, but it is not really so hard to do. About 4 hours into the project, as you run wires from one end of the car to the other, you will have the epiphany, and it will all come clear to you. The wiring will then go pretty quickly.
The problems come not from wiring mistakes, but from problems of construction quality. Connectors, insulation and soldered joints are more problematic than following a wiring scheme. Clean wire runs using wire stays, convolute and tie wraps are important.
I don't cover (wrap) up the wiring behind the dash and beneath the scuttle. This makes trouble shooting easy, as the wire runs can be easily seen. No scheme is necessary for most problems. Trouble shooting on the road has been very rare, but on that one occasion when there was a component failure, the visual nature of the wiring made bypassing the dead relay quick and easy.
I use Lucas wiring code and wire that I get from a British wiring specialist here in the US. Even the Westfield wiring harness uses the Lucas colors. However, I prefer to use my own wiring scheme with the Painless fuse block, so I just removed the wiring from the Westfield loom and wired it to my labeled fuse block and fuel pump relay.
I purchased the period correct switches from a UK supplier, and sorted them out with a volt meter prior to installation so that I knew which terminals I wanted to use. For switches with pinch screw connectors I tinned the wire ends with solder before connecting them to the switch terminals.
If you need a scheme to follow, you can use an old Lotus 7 Series Two wiring scheme, which works fine. Very simple, and it covers all of the accessories that the W11 has.
If you have an alternator, there are generally three wires, One to the "battery," (could be a battery connection at the starter solenoid or the fuse box) one to the key switch, and one to the warning light. This can be sorted out using a modern Spridget wiring scheme. Many modern alternators need only one wire to the battery, and one to the warning light. It depends on what type you have. The little ND alternators are generally three wire. There are lots of alternator conversion wiring schemes on the internet. Modern alternators all have internal voltage regulators, even the old Lucas types (which I dont recommend as they don't see to last long. Their internals vibrate apart after a few thousand miles).
If you go with a "Painless Wiring" fuse block (as pictured in my album), all of the connections are labeled, and you can safely wire the entire car without a scheme at all. I have done several that way, using Lucas wiring code and wire.
What you will find, about half way through the project, is that wiring is a bit of fun. Perhaps one of the most satisfying of the projects that you will do during the construction of the car.
Wiring seems to be a scary topic for many builders, but it is not really so hard to do. About 4 hours into the project, as you run wires from one end of the car to the other, you will have the epiphany, and it will all come clear to you. The wiring will then go pretty quickly.
The problems come not from wiring mistakes, but from problems of construction quality. Connectors, insulation and soldered joints are more problematic than following a wiring scheme. Clean wire runs using wire stays, convolute and tie wraps are important.
I don't cover (wrap) up the wiring behind the dash and beneath the scuttle. This makes trouble shooting easy, as the wire runs can be easily seen. No scheme is necessary for most problems. Trouble shooting on the road has been very rare, but on that one occasion when there was a component failure, the visual nature of the wiring made bypassing the dead relay quick and easy.
I use Lucas wiring code and wire that I get from a British wiring specialist here in the US. Even the Westfield wiring harness uses the Lucas colors. However, I prefer to use my own wiring scheme with the Painless fuse block, so I just removed the wiring from the Westfield loom and wired it to my labeled fuse block and fuel pump relay.
I purchased the period correct switches from a UK supplier, and sorted them out with a volt meter prior to installation so that I knew which terminals I wanted to use. For switches with pinch screw connectors I tinned the wire ends with solder before connecting them to the switch terminals.
If you need a scheme to follow, you can use an old Lotus 7 Series Two wiring scheme, which works fine. Very simple, and it covers all of the accessories that the W11 has.
If you have an alternator, there are generally three wires, One to the "battery," (could be a battery connection at the starter solenoid or the fuse box) one to the key switch, and one to the warning light. This can be sorted out using a modern Spridget wiring scheme. Many modern alternators need only one wire to the battery, and one to the warning light. It depends on what type you have. The little ND alternators are generally three wire. There are lots of alternator conversion wiring schemes on the internet. Modern alternators all have internal voltage regulators, even the old Lucas types (which I dont recommend as they don't see to last long. Their internals vibrate apart after a few thousand miles).
If you go with a "Painless Wiring" fuse block (as pictured in my album), all of the connections are labeled, and you can safely wire the entire car without a scheme at all. I have done several that way, using Lucas wiring code and wire.
What you will find, about half way through the project, is that wiring is a bit of fun. Perhaps one of the most satisfying of the projects that you will do during the construction of the car.
-
M400too
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:46 am
- Location: Fife scotland
Re: Wiring
May thanks will get on with it this weekend
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Wiring
Get a good quality ratcheting crimper and dies to fit the pins and solderless terminals that you will be using.
Also, get some shrink tube, solder and a good quality soldering iron with a small, pointed tip. A heat gun is also useful to shrink the tubing if you use non insulated terminals, and like to solder and crimp your connections (I often do).
The ratchet crimper can be purchased at a reasonable price with a three crimp die for the insulated connectors. You can then add one non insulated terminals, spark plug leads (surprising how useful this is), and for the small weatherpak pins. Always have the proper crimp on your wire and insulator.
Much better than the cheap plier type crimper. Much more useful.
Also invest in a good wire stripper.
Have Fun!
Also, get some shrink tube, solder and a good quality soldering iron with a small, pointed tip. A heat gun is also useful to shrink the tubing if you use non insulated terminals, and like to solder and crimp your connections (I often do).
The ratchet crimper can be purchased at a reasonable price with a three crimp die for the insulated connectors. You can then add one non insulated terminals, spark plug leads (surprising how useful this is), and for the small weatherpak pins. Always have the proper crimp on your wire and insulator.
Much better than the cheap plier type crimper. Much more useful.
Also invest in a good wire stripper.
Have Fun!
-
M400too
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:46 am
- Location: Fife scotland
Re: Wiring
I a m using the westie supplied wiring loom so connections all fitted, my main query is on the voltage regulator as I have a modern stabiliser and not really sure about connections will take a pic of unit and instructions and post later
-
jonclancy
- Posts: 944
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: Wiring
Jan, do you have a link to the ratchetting crimper with dies, please?
Pepboys etc as good as any in the UK, or eBay suppliers...
Many thanks
Jon
Pepboys etc as good as any in the UK, or eBay suppliers...
Many thanks
Jon
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Wiring
You can find them at any auto supply store, electrical supply, racing supply (though they are always a bit expensive, especially if they come with all the dies. However, you might check Jeg's or Summit here in the US for a reasonable priced set). Pep Boys has them properly priced here as well.
Ratcheting crimpers at Jegs http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... imper+tool
Here is a selection at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... imper+tool
The inexpensive, under $30 sets work very well, and will last forever. Dies are easy to get, and are often interchangeable between makes as they all use identical designs. You don't need to spend $70 on this tool to get an excellent result. However, if you are looking to do many different types of connectors, a set with 8mm spark plug terminal dies, weatherpak pin dies and insulated and non insulated connector dies would be a good investment. By the one with the best price.
Most come with three way color coded insulated crimp dies. These will usually work with non insulated terminals as well.
Ratcheting crimpers at Jegs http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... imper+tool
Here is a selection at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... imper+tool
The inexpensive, under $30 sets work very well, and will last forever. Dies are easy to get, and are often interchangeable between makes as they all use identical designs. You don't need to spend $70 on this tool to get an excellent result. However, if you are looking to do many different types of connectors, a set with 8mm spark plug terminal dies, weatherpak pin dies and insulated and non insulated connector dies would be a good investment. By the one with the best price.
Most come with three way color coded insulated crimp dies. These will usually work with non insulated terminals as well.