Hi everyone.
My name is Daniel and I live in Italy about one hour from Venice.
I bought an Eleven kit in late 2012 but unfortunately,
since I opened a car repair, I had little time to
build the Westfield.I discovered this forum a year ago , your experiences
and your advice are very useful to prevent errors.
I hope to find time to finish it,
and finally use it !!
New member from Italy
-
Simon Marks
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 2:05 pm
Re: New member from Italy
Hi, Daniel,
Welcome aboard. This is a really good place to pick up advice so you can make your car a better one at the start. I look forward to seeing reports from you as to how you are getting on.
Simon
Welcome aboard. This is a really good place to pick up advice so you can make your car a better one at the start. I look forward to seeing reports from you as to how you are getting on.
Simon
-
biggles
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:10 am
Re: New member from Italy
Hi Daniel
Have you a plan for registering the completed car? The reason I ask is that I used to be in the sportscar business, working for a small manufacturer, and from conversations I had when we exhibited at the Geneva motor show, it seemed then very difficult to get a kitcar or low volume production car (i.e. One with no type approval) registered in Italy. Some people we had contact with were planning to import our cars to Monaco where anything could be registered, then re-export to Italy.
I am also aware of one Westfield that is left hand drive that was built for a customer in France who then found out he couldn't register it, so had to sell it in U.K....
I hope I haven't given you a shock but it is worth being sure you can use the car when you get it finished!
Regards
Tim
Have you a plan for registering the completed car? The reason I ask is that I used to be in the sportscar business, working for a small manufacturer, and from conversations I had when we exhibited at the Geneva motor show, it seemed then very difficult to get a kitcar or low volume production car (i.e. One with no type approval) registered in Italy. Some people we had contact with were planning to import our cars to Monaco where anything could be registered, then re-export to Italy.
I am also aware of one Westfield that is left hand drive that was built for a customer in France who then found out he couldn't register it, so had to sell it in U.K....
I hope I haven't given you a shock but it is worth being sure you can use the car when you get it finished!
Regards
Tim
-
bobwhittaker
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:42 pm
Re: New member from Italy
DANIEL
The build is straightforward with few if any complications such as electronics / ABS or the like . The fitment
of a Ford Type 9 five speed gearbox is desirable particularly with the long 1st gear conversion , 2.98 : 1 ratio , which
makes better use of the 5 gears . Also for a road car a 3.9 axle ratio is an advantage .
The standard brakes are just about adequate , however I would favour an upgrade on the front , a minimum of decent
pads , preferably upgraded discs / calipers . On my build the handbrake linkage across the backaxle was problematical
due the brake rods fouling chassis tubes and the panhard rod , also achieving the correct angles in the system to gain
full mechanical advantage . Mine was an early car and there may have been chassis mods since that improve the set up .
A simple method to restrict steering lock to prevent the front wheels fouling the body is to use Jubilee Clips ( Hose clips )
around the steering rack instead of stripping to fit solid spacers . They can be slid into any position and tighten in place ,
they have been on my car for 5 years .
Do not fix anything to the scuttle bulkhead in the engine compartment , such as header tank / relays / wiring / plumbing .
The scuttle / Windscreen can then be removed in 1 minute ( 4 DZUS fasteners ) to access the back of the dashboard or
facia panel for wiring or instrumentation .
Your physical build decides what seating to use . For maximum leg room and width install the one piece back with simple
squab cushions . For more knee room use an 11 inch diameter steering wheel (The small wheel is perfectly adequate ) and
for ease of access a quickly detachable one , this gives added security if you take the wheel with you when you leave the car .
For a more " finished " appearance it is easy totrim and fit chrome rims over the headlamp mountings and adjusters under
the headlamp cowls .
An annoying item in The UK is meeting the IVA regulations ( Individual Vehicle Assessment ). Westfield supply headlamp
pods , mirrors , rear number plate mount and even advise that the windscreen and doors are left off for the inspection . Once
the certificate has been odtained the " Add ons " are removed and the doors and windscreen fitted . What is the point of the
inspection in the first instance ! , particularly considering commercial and agricultural vehicles are exempt . I don't know what
procedures you might have to go through in Italy to register the car though .
The best of luck during the build and beyond , the best advice is to " Keep it simple " and build the car how you want it . There
will never be two Westfield Elevens alike and when all is said and done it is a copy of a 60 year car .
One last comment , a bit more power over the 66 bhp of the standard 1275 cc MG Midget is very welcome .
Cheers , Bob Whittaker
The build is straightforward with few if any complications such as electronics / ABS or the like . The fitment
of a Ford Type 9 five speed gearbox is desirable particularly with the long 1st gear conversion , 2.98 : 1 ratio , which
makes better use of the 5 gears . Also for a road car a 3.9 axle ratio is an advantage .
The standard brakes are just about adequate , however I would favour an upgrade on the front , a minimum of decent
pads , preferably upgraded discs / calipers . On my build the handbrake linkage across the backaxle was problematical
due the brake rods fouling chassis tubes and the panhard rod , also achieving the correct angles in the system to gain
full mechanical advantage . Mine was an early car and there may have been chassis mods since that improve the set up .
A simple method to restrict steering lock to prevent the front wheels fouling the body is to use Jubilee Clips ( Hose clips )
around the steering rack instead of stripping to fit solid spacers . They can be slid into any position and tighten in place ,
they have been on my car for 5 years .
Do not fix anything to the scuttle bulkhead in the engine compartment , such as header tank / relays / wiring / plumbing .
The scuttle / Windscreen can then be removed in 1 minute ( 4 DZUS fasteners ) to access the back of the dashboard or
facia panel for wiring or instrumentation .
Your physical build decides what seating to use . For maximum leg room and width install the one piece back with simple
squab cushions . For more knee room use an 11 inch diameter steering wheel (The small wheel is perfectly adequate ) and
for ease of access a quickly detachable one , this gives added security if you take the wheel with you when you leave the car .
For a more " finished " appearance it is easy totrim and fit chrome rims over the headlamp mountings and adjusters under
the headlamp cowls .
An annoying item in The UK is meeting the IVA regulations ( Individual Vehicle Assessment ). Westfield supply headlamp
pods , mirrors , rear number plate mount and even advise that the windscreen and doors are left off for the inspection . Once
the certificate has been odtained the " Add ons " are removed and the doors and windscreen fitted . What is the point of the
inspection in the first instance ! , particularly considering commercial and agricultural vehicles are exempt . I don't know what
procedures you might have to go through in Italy to register the car though .
The best of luck during the build and beyond , the best advice is to " Keep it simple " and build the car how you want it . There
will never be two Westfield Elevens alike and when all is said and done it is a copy of a 60 year car .
One last comment , a bit more power over the 66 bhp of the standard 1275 cc MG Midget is very welcome .
Cheers , Bob Whittaker
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: New member from Italy
A few other suggestinos:
The handbrake linkage rods at the rear are not mch of a problem. Re drilling the rod's attach points on the mechanical brake arms at the drums re locates the rods away from the chassis tubes. They go beneath the axle... Not above. As for mechanical advantage, there is plenty if the brakes are properly adjusted. I have a very steep driveway, and the brake will hold the car pointed both down hill and uphill. I have done the installation on both early and late chassis, and the hand brake works with authority on both cars.
I agree, do not attach anything to the scuttle. The later cars have nuts and studs to attach the scuttle/winshield inside the passenger compartment, and dzus buttons on the firewall. The studs and nuts of the later car make the removal of the windshield/scuttle panel tedious. However, you can use a dzus sliding fastener clips in place of the stud, as pictured in my build album at the yahoo westfieldxiownersbuildersdrivers forum. This reduces the time to remove or repace the scuttle to just a few seconds.
The early cars have 4 dzus, which is a better system.
You can get axle ratios from 4.22, which is standard 1275 Spridget, as well as 3.9:1 (US Spridget between '68 and '71, and the 3.7 for a US Midget 1500.
ats
I have used a 3.9 for my LHD car. This, with the T9 5th gear makes long distance cruising at 130 KPH practical. A 3.7 final drive would also be advantages, but with the larger tires you would run in the back, you may want more power. That said, the car would have very long legs for cruising. If you can afford it, go with a TranX or 3J clutch type LSD and Peter May or other race axles (mandatory with the LSD). The combination is ezpensive, but with the extra traction off the corners, it feels like another 20 HP.
I also agree about the "Long 1st" gear conversion. Reallly a must if you want 5 useful gears.
More power is also useful. You can get more than 100 HP without too much trouble, starting with a 1380 over bore. The big expense to getting more power is in the cylinder head. You need to change the cylinder head to a high flow ported type (or the available alloy head) to get any advantage out of a performance cam shaft and additional displacement. Higher compression pistons are also useful as are larger carburetors. Just remember that cams and carburetors wont make much of a difference without an improved cylinder head.
The build is not difficult. Just remember that as you build this car, you may have to take it apart to make changes or to service it. Don't think that any part will be installed and never touched again.
As an example:
You will need to remove the bolts for the rear suspension arms and dampers for regular service to the bushings or a rear mounted battery, or to make changes. This is one area that comes to mind, especially when you onsider installing the rear wheel housings (I leave them off...)
You can also order a bias bar brake pedal for RHD chassis from Westfield should you want to convert to separate front and rear master cylinders with adjustable bias and remote reservoirs for ease of service. The firewall of the RHD chassis is drilled for twin master cylinders and the floor mounted pedals.
I suggest this as the brake feel with the supplied tandem master cylinder is not really precise.
If you have a LHD car, you are stuck with the Spridget hanging pedal arrangement and the Westfield supplied master cylinder unless you fabricate a new pedal assembly with twin master cylinders.
Have fun. This is a really rewarding build.
The handbrake linkage rods at the rear are not mch of a problem. Re drilling the rod's attach points on the mechanical brake arms at the drums re locates the rods away from the chassis tubes. They go beneath the axle... Not above. As for mechanical advantage, there is plenty if the brakes are properly adjusted. I have a very steep driveway, and the brake will hold the car pointed both down hill and uphill. I have done the installation on both early and late chassis, and the hand brake works with authority on both cars.
I agree, do not attach anything to the scuttle. The later cars have nuts and studs to attach the scuttle/winshield inside the passenger compartment, and dzus buttons on the firewall. The studs and nuts of the later car make the removal of the windshield/scuttle panel tedious. However, you can use a dzus sliding fastener clips in place of the stud, as pictured in my build album at the yahoo westfieldxiownersbuildersdrivers forum. This reduces the time to remove or repace the scuttle to just a few seconds.
The early cars have 4 dzus, which is a better system.
You can get axle ratios from 4.22, which is standard 1275 Spridget, as well as 3.9:1 (US Spridget between '68 and '71, and the 3.7 for a US Midget 1500.
ats
I have used a 3.9 for my LHD car. This, with the T9 5th gear makes long distance cruising at 130 KPH practical. A 3.7 final drive would also be advantages, but with the larger tires you would run in the back, you may want more power. That said, the car would have very long legs for cruising. If you can afford it, go with a TranX or 3J clutch type LSD and Peter May or other race axles (mandatory with the LSD). The combination is ezpensive, but with the extra traction off the corners, it feels like another 20 HP.
I also agree about the "Long 1st" gear conversion. Reallly a must if you want 5 useful gears.
More power is also useful. You can get more than 100 HP without too much trouble, starting with a 1380 over bore. The big expense to getting more power is in the cylinder head. You need to change the cylinder head to a high flow ported type (or the available alloy head) to get any advantage out of a performance cam shaft and additional displacement. Higher compression pistons are also useful as are larger carburetors. Just remember that cams and carburetors wont make much of a difference without an improved cylinder head.
The build is not difficult. Just remember that as you build this car, you may have to take it apart to make changes or to service it. Don't think that any part will be installed and never touched again.
As an example:
You will need to remove the bolts for the rear suspension arms and dampers for regular service to the bushings or a rear mounted battery, or to make changes. This is one area that comes to mind, especially when you onsider installing the rear wheel housings (I leave them off...)
You can also order a bias bar brake pedal for RHD chassis from Westfield should you want to convert to separate front and rear master cylinders with adjustable bias and remote reservoirs for ease of service. The firewall of the RHD chassis is drilled for twin master cylinders and the floor mounted pedals.
I suggest this as the brake feel with the supplied tandem master cylinder is not really precise.
If you have a LHD car, you are stuck with the Spridget hanging pedal arrangement and the Westfield supplied master cylinder unless you fabricate a new pedal assembly with twin master cylinders.
Have fun. This is a really rewarding build.
-
jonclancy
- Posts: 943
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: New member from Italy
Welcome, Daniel.
This forum is a superb resource and I'm sure any questions you might have during your build will be answered quickly.
Enjoy your build!
Jon
This forum is a superb resource and I'm sure any questions you might have during your build will be answered quickly.
Enjoy your build!
Jon
-
bluelotus57
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:40 pm
Re: New member from Italy
Tanks to all for the welcome !!
@Biggles : for the registration will my friend who has an agency specialized in classic cars and difficult registration .
If it fails,I contact you, thank you.
@Bobwhittaker tanks for advise !
Jan : I read your advice on your Yahoo group, and I have followed many
your build tips.
Your experience with these cars is very valuable, tanks.
@Biggles : for the registration will my friend who has an agency specialized in classic cars and difficult registration .
If it fails,I contact you, thank you.
@Bobwhittaker tanks for advise !
Jan : I read your advice on your Yahoo group, and I have followed many
your build tips.
Your experience with these cars is very valuable, tanks.
-
bluelotus57
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:40 pm
Re: New member from Italy
This is my car specs :
LHD , Lemans hump
1330 MED RS engine based on Morris Marina engine (about 100hp)
Ford type 9 close ratio box
3jdriveline clutch type LSD with 4.55 final ratio (in prevision of "15 wheels )
Peter May comp. halfshafts and "9 disc brakes kit.
LHD , Lemans hump
1330 MED RS engine based on Morris Marina engine (about 100hp)
Ford type 9 close ratio box
3jdriveline clutch type LSD with 4.55 final ratio (in prevision of "15 wheels )
Peter May comp. halfshafts and "9 disc brakes kit.
-
Westfield 129
- Posts: 867
- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: New member from Italy
You can use the 3.9 final drive with 15" wheels (and the 5.00X15 tire) without any real loss of aceleration, even with the "Long 1st" gearbox. The car is very light, so the longer gear doesn't really have much effect on the acceleration.
I have done the cars with both ratios using 15" wheels. No difference other than the reduced cruising RPM at 80 mph.
Even with the 4.55 and the 15" wheels, cruise RPM in 5th is around 3600 RPM, which is close to perfect with a 1380 A series, putting it right in the middle of the power band. Passing usually doesn't require a down shift.
I have done the cars with both ratios using 15" wheels. No difference other than the reduced cruising RPM at 80 mph.
Even with the 4.55 and the 15" wheels, cruise RPM in 5th is around 3600 RPM, which is close to perfect with a 1380 A series, putting it right in the middle of the power band. Passing usually doesn't require a down shift.