Westfield Elevens

Of course the advantage of molasses over electrolysis is that you won't be breaching the Geneva convention on weapons of mass destruction due to chlorine release...

Why not a rotary wire brush on a drill motor, or a standard aircraft paint stripper.

I have found that the strippers work quite well (I have even used it to remove unfortunate choices of color from engine blocks and cylinder heads), and a wire brush does an excellent job of surface prep.

For the final finish, I have switched from powder coating to Eastwood Ultimate Chassis Black spray. The results are excellent. The cans shoot without drips or runs, with an even coating. The nice thing about it is that it is easily patched if chipped or scratched.

Hi Jan
I think we were more along the lines of unsticking the internals of Jons axle without leaving any residue to destroy the bearings later on. At least, that was what I was thinking! Your recommendation for the Eastwood paint is interesting though, as we can get that brand here from Frosts.

Best regards, Tim (in sunny Santiago at the moment but zero interesting cars to be seen out and about)

Yep, it’s for de-rusting and un-seizing my axle.

BTW, the Nash Metro axle is a little wider, by about two cm, than the wire wheel Spridget one. I’d be interested to get the meaurements for the steel axle. How about measuring from the centre of a diff stud to where axle flange meets the brake back plate?

My local, large, country store didn't stock molasses. Will look further afield...

The steel disc wheel axle is 1" wider than the wire wheel axle.

Peter May has proper race axles with the spline drives for the longer axles if you want to use wire wheels on the wider disc wheel axle. This means that you dont have to use bolt on spline hubs.

There is plenty of room in the rear body for the wider track, and you can also select wire wheels with a different backside spacing from MWS as well.

If you take measurements, take them from the brake back plate. When you do the welding of the suspension mounts, do all measurements from the center of the axle housing.

Look for a stripping/dip service to de-gunk your axle. You really don't want to be involved with solvents if you dont have to.

Is it that hard to find a good, clean axle housing in the UK?

As many a teacher advised a class before an exam:


RTFQ

Picked up most of a 1958 Morris Minor complete with fat rack (will check it to see if it is the same as the midget one) for 50 quid, although it's a bit of a punt as it's not on the DVLA computer. If I can get it registered OK, then it'll be my donor. Shame that under the new rules I won't be able to keep the reg number and transfer it, but any three letter three number will do...! Especially for under a ton....

Nice buy, Tim!

The new rules have caused a lot of joy/consternation in the classic world, depending if you are looking to do a Rebuilt Classic or Kit Conversion. Bugatti boys are wrestling with rhis at the moment, I understand. For us, a MM is a good way to start, and saves a grand for a number at the end of the process!

If I might offer: 803cc gearbox and engine from a MM with V5, Nash rear axle, triumph uprights... all a good place to start.

I, of course, have CAR 128F and a gentleman’s agreement. Slightly different route...

Well yes, I would say consternation is the right word! However I have little sympathy for either Bugatti owners who bought Pur Sang Type 35s, got 'continuation' chassis numbers from the owners club and registered them as old cars. They knew, or should have done, that it was a blag. Same as hot rodders who replaced the whole chassis/suspension. No different to building a kitcar, so follow the kitcar regs ie IVA! The regs protect us from killjoys who want to ban our sort of tinkering completely - at least we have a stable framework of regs to work to. I could never move to France, for example, as the six monthly trip back to U.K. with all my jalopies would be onerous!

Engine's still stuck by the way. After I,ve treated myself to a crane, I’m going to lift it a bit and get a big spanner on the crank nut. Anyone any reasons why I shouldn’t? I won’t go mad obviously, just give it a little more oomph than rocking it in gear will....

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

It's been a busy day. I am chassised up! Scored a genuine W11 chassis, bonnet and rear axle casing from ebay, so it looks like ai won’t be welding up my own frame...