Westfield Elevens

Through the seat back rest holes for me but it caused some problems at the IVA - details here: https://2js-westfield-build.blogspot.co ... -dvla.html

Mine went through the holes in the seats - this gives you the correct IVA height from the seat squab to the shoulder straps - the point of borrowing the "homologated" seats. Passing around the side would not do this as the belts would naturally end up at shoulder height and not raised.

My belts come through the seat back/ bulkhead - using the Westfield supplied liners for the holes cut into the fibreglass. There is the debate that the forces caused in an accident would just tear the seatbelts upwards through the seat back and the front of the clamshell but my inspector did not make an issue of this.

Simon

Thank you to you both, I’ll get on with that solution.

Well its too late now.... its on the transporter ready for the IVA tomorrow.

[attachment=0]transporter.jpg[/attachment]

good luck for tomorrow

Good Luck - three years (almost to the day) since I did mine!

I'll be looking out for updates.

Simon

Its a fail i'm afraid, nothing to much though. There was a fluid leak at the tee piece on the rear axle, no self centring steering, and a problem with one of the brake lights.

So I'm after some information on the steering... can anyone tell me the amount of thread shown their top wishbone, please. I think the self centring is controlled by the castor angle.

The best of us came away with a few little bits to sort - don't be too downhearted.

I can't remember the settings I used for my suspension. I'm pretty sure I set it up as per the build guide - but I did make sure that the car was sitting on four pads that were absolutely level when I did set it up. I'm sure that good advice will be along shortly.

As soon as I got home with small list of "to dos", I phoned up to get the next available test to give me a deadline. I was able to book for seven days later (no problem as sorting the issues out wasn't even a (Sunday) morning's work). It was at a different test centre but the examiner only looked at the items on the list. I didn't even have to take my car off the trailer but I am sure that you will have to do so to check the steering self centring.

Simon

Sounds like a sterling job to me with only very minor tweaks required - there is still plenty of summer remaining to get some good drives in. I guess though there's the faff of having to get the car to the test centre again.

The 'build manual' on Page 100 does specify the initial setup once built and loaded with a driver, although during assembly stage there is no mention (as far as as I can see) as to how far to initially screw in the trunnion mount to the upper wishbone to set as approximately correct wheel camber.

Good luck!

Most of the problems with a lack of steering return on a new build is the toe, or Tracking. Most of the time, it is WAY too toed out, mainly due to the setting of the toe prior to putting a driver in the car, or mis cutting of the tie rod ends. Occasionally, the problem maybe too far toed in, which may need new rod ends to correct.

Caster is not adjustable on the Westfield front end, but the camber is.
It is important to adjust the ride height, camber and the toe with the driver's weight in the seat.
Also, make sure that the front suspension bolts are not too tight. 5~6 lb.ft. should do it, as the bushings can bind up and cause problems with the steering, and the ride. If you stand on the front frame and bounce the chassis, it should return smartly.

Set camber to -1º front (driver installed).
Toe should be 1/16" toe in. TOTAL (1/32" per side).

It is also important to make sure that your steering rack is not binding, and that your U joint is properly aligned so that the steering shaft is not binding as well.
Check the rack coupler to the steering shaft for binding against the chassis. This is also a common problem for couplers that were not precisely gun drilled (on a lathe or mill) to accept the steering stub shaft.

You might want to invest in a "Smart Camber Tool" or similar device to set your camber, and check your caster. Also, a set of "Toe Plates" is really useful in setting the toe. Otherwise, you may have to take the car to an alignment specialist. Remember to sit in the car as the specialist does the adjusting.