I was out this afternoon. Chilly, but blue skies. Low sun later on made it a bit tricky, but well worth getting the XI our for a little run in the Cotswolds.
Although I have a master-switch, the 5 deg cold-soak made starting a little tricky. The engine was slow to turn over. My gel battery is excellent, but I needed a boost from a spare batt I have in the garage, and then she sprang into life.
I continue to think this is the best car I have ever owned!
Here, I am still using the W11 daily. It was in the 90s F last week, now back down to the 60s, around 15C. I was rained on yesterday. Not too bad, really. Here in California, we drive the cars all year around. No rain (usually) or snow out here on the coast.
My car doesn't have an enclosure (at the moment) for the pedal quadrant, so my feet are always warm. In a while, I will be off for a drive in the canyons. I really have to bend a new box for the early pedal system, but I am working on a modification to allow dual master cylinders for the brakes.
If you are having cranking problems, even at cold temps, you might take a look at the starter. I have started my car in low 40s (around 5C) without problem, using a Odyssey 925 battery, and a Honda derived, light weight geared starter from British Starters. My Weber's enrichment circuit worked perfectly, as did the cooling system thermostat. No master switch.
I have been doing short trips with the new RHD car, while waiting for my registration to arrive. The only problems so far include one small leak from the front cover (fixed with a wrench on the retaining bolt), a leaky pinion seal, and pinging from a little too much spark advance, or fuel that is a little off. Today, I am going to address the timing issue, then remove the drive shaft to replace the pinion seal.
I'm envious, Jan. A few years ago, I was sat in Long Beach having lunch with a couple of mates. Bright sunshine and t-shirt weather. All in early January!!
I've got my PC680 battery hooked up to a conditioner, but you're right. A WOSP or British Starters unit is on my wish-list. Also a lightweight alternator. As mentioned in the past, I can get a genuine Denso OEM unit for around £50 in the USA.
I have my advance timing light on the way, courtesey of the 'Bay, so will be able to mess around with the tuning to my heart's content. I need to pop off the timing cover to have a look at the crank oil seal, and will use the 4th gear method to lock the engine. All little jobs that don't stop me getting No 42 our for a blast whenever I can. Ace!
That "genuine" Denso at about $80 US is really a chinese copy, or it is a used one from a breaker. I have one that I bought new, and is a copy. It works just fine (and I bought one for my Mercedes as well, but have not installed it yet). I have not put too many miles on mine (maybe 2000), but we will see if the copies are really a good deal. I was only getting about a year of use from the Lucas units, as the rectifiers would disintegrate from the vibration. Already, the Denso copy is doing just fine, and has nearly double the amps. Maybe I can try some real headlights, and release the imprisoned fireflies.
I also have a real Denso, at a cost of about $235 USD, on my RHD car. It works well, too.
If the crank seal is not leaking, leave it, and the front cover alone. If it is leaking, by all means, take it apart.
Mine's still on the road. I had it out the other weekend, the only thing is that the Avons really don't like the cold and damp they offer even less grip than usual (makes life interesting though!).
Avon themselves call the CR322's "widow makers" so go figure...
Good reason why they are used on Caterham Academy cars. Teach those novices how to catch a Seven when it bites!
I've got a little weep by the timing marks. I have a spare timing cover, so was going to make sure it was true, clean it up, and install with a new seal kit.
I think you're right - this is probably a copy alternator (but inexpensive!):
40A would be more than enough for us. My headlamps are standard units and work well - I drive my car a reasonable amount at night - probably more than 25% of the miles I have put on it (1200 in around 6 months). If any of you guys haven't tried a night blat, I'd heartily recommend it - fabulous experience!
I was going to put a set of CR322 on the car for the new season, but I'm not so sure now!!
The CR322's are fine! I ran them for 8000 miles on the road and on trackdays. At legal road speeds they're as good as any other budget tyre, and in the dry on track allow lots of sliding. Last forever too...
You can get the little Denso copies at 60 amps or more. The reality is that the old Lucas alternator never made 30 amps, even new. You will be very happy with the cheap Denso copy.
Nothing wrong with a cheap Chinese copy of a Denso if it works. Also, parts to repair are cheap from alternator suppliers. Mine works great. It has already outlasted the last rebuilt Lucas (disintegrated rectifier). I also recommend installing a battery voltage indicator gauge. Carebont makes them in Smith's type, for not very much money. Easy to hook up, and it gives you the alternator's output, and battery voltage. An excellent way to keep tabs on the electricals.
I often go out in the evening with my car, but not in the canyons, as the fireflies are old, and not very bright anymore. Also, I am over 60, so seeing in the dark requires a bit more illumination (I recommend a Porsche Panamera. Best night lights of all!). I may change over to some modern halogen seal beams, or some bulb type halogen envelopes in the near future, as I have a few amps to spare now.
