Bottom End Wear - Engine Out Job

[jonclancy]

I've got around to painting my head. No, not that one...

This one:

[jonclancy]

I used Granville Engine Black (satin). Goes on really nicely in a single coat. Brush finish is pretty good and it cures on the car with running.

Engine next. Standard sump is done.

I'll be refitting the standard sump. I have that one and the short sump soda-blasted again, as I was going to revisit the short sump project. But, on closer inspection, there are still remnants of the old powder-coating and media grit hiding behind the baffles. I'll be able to use that version as a pattern for a (slightly modified) cassette manufacturing run, but this one will not be going on the car. I suppose I could take the angle-grinder to it and open it up for cleaning, but it might be better left as a development mule.

[jonclancy]

I can't actually believe that I had the head back and painted in July, but only put the engine back in yesterday! Not very impressive work at all!

On the upside, the install went well (Thanks to my mate Chris' help), I've learned loads during the process (and more to come, no doubt) and might actually get to drive my car again after such a long lay-off. Just thought I'd update - gives a bit of motivation!

[Westfield 129]

Looks good, but I have a suggestion...

Why not run the fuel line across the inside of the scuttle, rather than outside the frame, in front, where it might be cut by a shard of fiberglass if you should hit something, or should something hit you? Running the fuel line across the firewall, or inside the scuttle would keep it out of harm's way. I am (temporarily) running a soft line on my LHD car from the tank to the pump, to an inline filter and a pressure regulator, across the firewall to the carburetor. The plan is for a steel hard line across the scuttle shelf, with new hose ends and push on Aeroquip or Goodridge -6 hose. My RHD car has a stainless hard line across the scuttle floor, with barb ends for Aeroquip or Goodridge push on hose at each end. This was very clean and easy. Since the barbed push on hose fittings are good for 150 psi, they have been working fine for years at 4 psi with no need for clamps. I also used the push on hose for the cooling system's small diameter vent and secondary hoses, as well as for the oil cooler.

Also, you might run the radiator vent line inside the frame as well.

I have seen a few cars lately with the fuel line right up front, outside the frame, where it could be cut if the radiator and the top mount are displaced, or the bonnet is shattered. I am a firm believer in putting fluid lines inside the chassis where ever possible.

[jonclancy]

A very good safety point, Jan.

Thanks!

Jon

[Westfield 129]

I think that part of the reason that the cars were built that way is that the independently produced build manual had that particular setup. I have seen it on some other cars that were built locally here in the US, much as the manual showed.

It always seemed to be a waste of tubing, since the run from the fuel pump to the carburetor would be shorter across the firewall or within the scuttle.

With all of the build information between this site and my own, we should be able to produce a better, more detailed build and maintenance manual for the W11. We could cover in detail some of the operations, such as tapping the steering column mounts, how to properly weld on the steering wheel quick release hub, and installation of the brake rods.

So far as I know, there is no comprehensive MAINTENANCE manual for the car that would cover such topics as suspension bushing inspection and replacement, general nut and bolt tightening/inspection, and drive train/cooling system maintenance. Some of this could be lifted from the various Spridget maintenance manuals.

In addition, a list of approved lubricants can be listed for the Ribcase, Datsun and T9 transmissions.

There are quite a few cars around now, and I think that a proper owner/builder's manual would be a useful item to have.

I might be able to take submissions and put the manual togther here, if anyone is interested in submitting useful build information.

Also, a modification manual might be useful for those wanting to update early cars, or back date the later ones.

[jonclancy]

That sounds like a great idea, Jan, and a HUGE undertaking.

That said, there is all the know-how here and on the lists - gathering it up into one place would be very, very useful.

[Westfield 129]

I am thinking about an addendum to the current independent manual, plus some information that I can put together on back dating the current W11 chassis to the early, longer dampers.

Also, I have pictures of the double master cylinder brake setup that are for the most part, self explanatory, and the special brake pedal is a Westfield part.

I think that we can put the information on both sites in an archive. That way, anyone can print it out and add it to their own build manual.

[seajayare]

westfield129 what is the steering column mod that you mention ? I have done some searching and I can't find anything about it. I asked as a new topic so that if the answer goes in there it might make finding it easier in the future.

Sorry if this is coverd everywhere else but I have looked on the two yahoo groups and this one and haven't been able to find any further clues.

as i now have my kit laid out on the floor i was going to try and pull together a parts list with pics which i think would be a useful addition to the build manual ( even though I think each kit of parts seems to be different it'll be a start) and could go in the archive of mods/additions that you are loking to build if that'd be any use.

cheers

[Splat]

Jan's writing about converting the column to accept a quick-release steering wheel boss. FWIW I'm a rather fat 15st and 5'11" and don't have any problem with a fixed wheel. (Although I'm pleased to say that I also fit in the Westfield bucket seats, too!)