Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?

[Daggers-xi]

Nice photo's, the your effort is appreciated.
Sorry but a couple of questions-
Do I take it that the standard rocker box cap just clear the underside of the bonnet on the standard car?
Is there a low profile dash pot lid available?
I have just looked in Vizards a-series tuning book and he seems to suggest the a HS dash pot will fit a HIF carb, and I wondered if the overall dash pot/lid height is the same for both carbs?
I don't have either carbs at the moment so am unable to measure, just thought it could save mod to manifold.
Just been told my kit is going to be a week late, I need a beer.
Daggers

[allymally]

Hi Daggers, I have read your post and for what its worth I would advise you to use a Weber set up it will save you money in the long run, should you want to increase power at a later stage.
I have used most set ups in the past which all perform ok but none are more versatile than the Weber.
I could probably find pictures of various set ups if you are interested .
All the very best with what ever you decide on. Malc

[Westfield 129]

I agree, the Weber DCOE 45 is best. The manifold configuration is easy to arrive at (flat or a 1/4~3/8" rise), and you can use a 6" intake to make a bit more power. The Sytec top mounted throttle linkage works well, and offers enough clearance between the Weber and the bonnet. Use a soft foam filter or a K&N. The clearance between the K&N is close to the frame, but this is not a problem as the clearance increases when the engine is running. No contact, though it looks close.

Maniflow has numerous combinations for the Weber intake.

The problem with shortening the dashpot is that the piston will loose travel, and the carburetor won't be able to get full throttle, or full fuel flow. You need to have the right piston and dash pot combination, or the right series carburetor.

The other problem is that to gain a good carb tune with the SU, you need to find the right needle. This is problematic as there are so many needles, and they control everything from idle through mid range to top end. It is a haystack of needles and needle profiles, you need to find just the right one. This can get expensive. And then, the throttle response is not as good as a Weber.

As far as the standard rocker cover's oil filler hitting the bonnet, that is a very real problem on the early cars (often, you can see the stress cracks in the bonnet where the contact occurs). I have taken to shortening the oil filler neck, reducing the valve cover height by about 3/4" when there is a clearance problem. My car's oil filler cap had been smashed flat, but the contact was still pretty solid, made even more so by a piece of rubber stuck in place as a pad (it didn't work, and only made the problem worse). The cast alloy rocker covers are too tall as well for the early cars.

I shortened the filler neck, and moved the breather tube to the side of the valve cover near the top, welding in a baffle to keep the oil from migrating out of the valve cover and into my catch tank. This was not brain surgery, and was done by brazing, which is not a difficult to master skill.

[erictharg]

It all adds character! Every hole tells a story (there's a joke there somewhere...) and I've had many folk ask about the one on my bonnet. I may yet need a 15 type "bulge" for mine depending on where the 4AGE ends up. But I'm committed now, so we'll see.

[Daggers-xi]

Thanks to all
This question was the result of taking the sound advice of Westfield 129 to a previous question regarding the basic engine rebuild for my XI. I am now having my engine rebuilt by a builder with a awesome reputation for a-series. He is building me a engine with a strong bottom end and a mild top end that is suitable for town and motorway driving, no track use. I then asked his advice on a carb setup, his advice was to use a HIF44. He did say that a 45 DCOE could be used if preferred but the HIF would possibly be better for the type of driving intended, thus my original question.
I really don't want a hole in my bonnet so I think I will start looking for a Weber 45 and maniflow inlet.
This build is taking me into new areas as all my previous engine experience is in pre war MG''s.
Daggers

[jonclancy]

Lots of great advice here.

You'll notice that I have a LOW-PROFILE oil filler cap on my car. The standard Midget item makes contact with the bonnet - I have the crazing to show for it.

I think for mild work, and a barely warm head, you'll need to be quite careful with your choke sizes on the Weber. Vizard, no doubt, has some pointers!

It'll be great to see some other photos, though. Thanks in advance, Malc...

[allymally]

Hi Jon No Probs

The first is my set up quite standard looking but the engine is rotated 10 degrees towards passenger side same as the second pictures, the first eleven replica I made more than 25 years ago.
The third is the SU set up which needed a small tear drop in the bonnet.
you may be able to see the filler neck blanked off in the first picture, this can be relocated down the side of the rocker box, I use Dry sump so no need for filler. I could only fit three pics so may be back with more later Back to the Mallock

[attachment=2]Richards 11 094.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]File0001 ist 11.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]my setup.jpg[/attachment]

[Westfield 129]

I tried a "low profile cap" on the rocker cover, but it didn't work. In fact, the car already had one, smashed flat...

Heating the rocker cover with a torch will loosen up the brazed on filler neck without any drama. Shortening the neck from the bottom will allow it to be re fitted and brazed back into position. You can shorten the neck until the cap nearly touches the cover, giving about 3/4" of additional clearance. This makes the cover, with the cap, the same height as the alloy cover WITHOUT a cap.

Another advantage of going with the steel standard cover with a shortened filler neck is that all of the roller rockers fit without modification of the cover.

The alloy covers require that the stiffening rails within the sides of the cover be milled away to clear the larger roller rockers.

It really doesn't matter which carb you use for drivability, they are all useless in not properly set up.

Also, the W11 is a light car, and a cam that might seem to be weak on the bottom end might not be a problem, especially if combined with a 1380. The engine can produce plenty of torque to move a 1400 lb package without protest. Having light weight, and a little more displacement can make a very hot engine act quite civilized. The trick is in the final tuning, and having enough compression to make the power.

[jonclancy]

I've spoken with the guys at Maniflow and they are excellently helpful. If we can identify the angles required, they can accomodate that. Either by adjusting my manifold, or, as it's a stock Sprite item, exchange and remake one to the Westfield XI spec.

So, what angles do we need? I'll work out the centre of the mounting flange so the dashpot top is below the filler cap level. That'll sort that problem out, and it's then a case of making sure there is enough clearance from the exhaust manifold.

[Daggers-xi]

Jon
Sounds very interesting.
It would be great if the manifold angles could be arranged so that a manifold could be designed and offered by maniflow for fitting a HIF44 in the XI . This could then give builders a extra choice of setup without drilling a hole.
I have just purchased a mint steel rocker box and will look forward to lowering the filler, I have looked at these rockers for ages and never realised they were just brazed, thanks '129.
Daggers