Ignition Woes

[jonclancy]

You can make out the cap between the dizzy body and cap once the cap is on place. Lets dust in...

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l96/j ... MG2292.jpg

[jonclancy]

And one of the reasons I had intermittent ignition...

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l96/j ... MG2294.jpg

The wires out of the dizzy are also damaged. Might have been me, though. They are a soft silicone sheathed type.

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l96/j ... MG2295.jpg

Just rechecked. My spare dizzys are 25D and 45D. The electronic one is 25D and I have a full points kit for 25D. I will be able to clean up the electronic version and heatshrink the cables (solder-slinger as main hobby, so have alll the kit). I'll also renew a points version and have that as a back up. So, the plan is to try and stick with the 25D and Lumenition, tape up the dizzy cap to stop any dirt getting in, and see how I go from there.

Simples...

[Westfield 129]

The cap should fit flush. Note that there is space for it to fit flush, but it doesn't, probably because the rotor is not seated properly on the distributor shaft. This is also the reason that you have so little clearance to remove the cap. If the rotor is too high, you can't angle the cap to remove it. This is really the cause of most of your problems.

Take off the rotor, and see if the cap fits flush to the distributor casting. I am sure that it will. Then refit the rotor, making sure that it fits all the way down on the shaft. Refit the cap, and it should fit properly. If it still doesn't, make sure that you have a good cap. My guess is that the one you have may have been damaged from not being properly seated on the distributor, anyway.

This could be the cause of a lot of your ignition problem, besides the fact that the "chop wheel" has chopped your positive lead...

I never had any luck with photocell ignition systems and I have tried a few. Pertronix works and is a very quick install. No internal whirlling blades to cut your wires...

[Westfield 129]

One more note about the fit of the distributor cap:

Note the plastic casting that holds the wires. It is WAY to high and needs to be cut down so that the cap can fit flush. Again, if the rotor is properly installed, then the extra distance will disrupt the ignition. That cap should fit flush. Look at anything that keeps the cap from properly fitting on the distributor, and modify it so that the cap fits flush and overlaps the distributor housing. There should be NO GAP.

[jonclancy]

Hi Jan,

My pic was misleading. The hole I was talking about is just above the baseplate screw. I had my hands full then I took that pic. The rotor was on fine.

I have robbed the dizzy from my Midget, and noted that even after standing garaged for nearly 20 years, the inside of the dizzy was still al little dirty. But, it was not gritty like the gash spare I had, or just plain dirty like the one off the car.

I have used my screw extractor today (nothing is simple - but Mrs C wouldn't like me to drop the dough on an Aldon set up), and got the donor dizzy all swapped over. I need to set up the static timing tomorrow (as the drive could be 180 deg out) and jack the engine up to reinstall the dizzy cap.

Fingers crossed.

Out of the other dizzys I have (one 45 and two 25s), I'll dismantle, untrasonically clean and build myself up a points unit (out of the 25Ds) and keep the 45 in reserve.

Next time I am visiting the US, I think I may try one of the PerTronix units - save the 3D ignition for another time.

Progress is being made!

[Westfield 129]

Not likely that the timing is out, as the keyway in the drive gear is slightly offset.

With the engine at TDC, the distributor should engage with the rotor over the #1 cylinder contact. If not, rotate the distributor in the clamp after it is engaged, or simply re wire the cap so it matches.

[jonclancy]

Thanks Jan,

I noticed the offset dog in the Haynes manual late yesterday evening. Jolly handy!!

The dizzy body is re-engaged and I just need to jack up the engine and get the cap back on.

It's raining here (yet again!!), so will not be finishing up today as I want to get the engine restarted to prove job done.

Thanks for all your help, guys. I think this little wrinkle is almost ironed out.

[Westfield 129]

If you have the distributor fully engaged, the cap should fit without moving the engine, though you may want to rotate it to the left (viewed from the front) on the mounts prior to tightening the engine mount bolts. The cap should fit with a little wiggling. It goes on from the front, open end first, then rotate it over the rotor. It should engage.

[jonclancy]

Oddly, the new cap popped straight on - must be less lofty than the one originally fitted. It's STILL raining here, so I can't get the car out of the garage to fire it up. I did turn it over, but it didn't catch. I'll need to just check there is a spark and I'll pop the cap off, rotate the engine so I can feel compression in Cylinder 1 and at TDC I'll swing the dizzy round to drop the rotor over lead 1 postition. I'm not a million miles away (looking at other photos on the web), so will try the spark first.

Weather is a complete pain - I won't be able to get Mrs C to come and help while it's like it is!

[Westfield 129]

I think that the cap fits properly, and that the distributor is all the way home.

I bet that it runs just fine.

Now, get yourself a "dial back" or advancing timing light, and you can get perfect timing.