Steering Rack Stops

[jonclancy]

Hi All,

I currently have dismantled my steering rack (offside) to fettle the lock-stops. I got embarrased again not making the RH turn at a T junction!

The current set up is a limiting tube. I can cut this down, but read in the manual that WF supply a lock stop kit. CAT motorsport do a split collar design for the Escort rack.

To save assembly and reassembly, I'd prefer to use a split collar type arrangement.

What did you folks get in your kit? What did you end up using?

I know Jan and probably others run no stops at all, but I'd rather have something there to save the bodywork.

Chaaars!

Jon

PS You need a BIG wrench to fit the rack nuts. I found the largest size Forge Steel adjustable wrench from Screwfix worked a treat. I now am the prout owner of a pair and the job would have been impossible without (unless I spent the same £££ on a pair of spanners!).

http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-1 ... ench/61294

[beng4]

Jon,

The t- junctions can take a bit of planning.... I use a cut down mini rack in mine, not sure how these are dimensionally inside compared to the midget rack? Anyhow i use the KAD rack limiters:

http://www.minisport.com/kad1012230-kad ... r-kit.html

This gives me about 10mm clearance from bodywork at full lock.

Ben

[bobwhittaker]

A quick fix that has so far been totaly secure ( 3000 miles ) is a jubilee clip on each side of the rack , easily fitted and totaly adjustable .

[jonclancy]

Thanks!

Got a plan I'll try next week - I'll post method and results once it's proven to work.

[erictharg]

I had some stops made to the recommended Westfield dimensions out of Nylon bar stock. As long as the wall thickness is not excessive (5 to 6 mm) you can cut a section out of them and "clip" them over the rack bar to avoid having to take the end joints off.

[jonclancy]

That's a good method for a new build or to adjust lock with tyre/wheel change, Charles. I'd like to build in that flexibility, too.

Once I have the other side de-locked, I'll get the max-lock assessed, marked and then install my stops. Actually working on cutting the sump in parallel, so could take into account going for a narrower section tyre (or the previously discussed Avons), both of which will reduce the rolling radius and lower the car. A method like yours, or indeed Bob's Jubilee Clip take, will allow very quick readjustment of the lock as required.

[Westfield 129]

I'm running 185/70/13s on my LHD car and 4.50X15 on my RHD car, and only need a stop on one side of the rack. Hose clamps (jubilee clips) work fine, as do some nylon machined stops that can clip to the rack. I favor the latter, BTW.

However, having said that... I don't use rack stops at all on my cars. If the tires brush slightly, I don't care. The only time that this happens is when I make a U turn, and it's a really small car.

I am sure that your MoT inspections will require rack stops, but that's not a problem here in the US.

[jonclancy]

I'm looking into Nylon 6 tubing, but need to check my rack diameter when I get home. A temporary fit of jubilees could be replaced by some split nylon tubing cut to the correct length. The tube could be machined at regular intervals to locate cable-ties flush with, or slightly below, the surface.

[jonclancy]

Out witht eh calipers today and the (later) rack diameter is 20.9mm. The nearest reasonable imperial size is probably 13/16". Seeing as the nylon tube needs to be split to fit, I am thinking something like 60mm OD, 20mm ID - it's readily available.

[jonclancy]

Update:

I'd actually go for the 40mm OD tubing as 60mm is too wide.

I've got the lockstops off and my later rack runs around 2 and 1/3 turns lock to lock (done. I'm going to get the front suspension re-checked, having had it in bits. I have around 1 turn to the right and 1 and 1/3 turn to the left before I hit the stops in the upright. Track rod ends had differing turns to undo, but the steering has always driven spot on. I can'r seem to find the rod end nylocs, either. They are low profile and look like a fine thread. But... no joy with my UNF nuts from stock, and the M10 nylocs I ordered have a coarser thread. Easiest thing would be to order a couple of new rod ends and get them installed. While I'm there, I'll look at centring the steering. With full left deflection, the rear of the offside tyre touches the bonnet. This'll be alleviated with the 175/70/13 Avons I'm intending on fitting, and the sump mod will look after the reduced rolling radius.

How many turns lock to lock do you guys get?

Cheers

Jon

EDIT: Just seen here that the earlier rack was 2.1/4 and the later 2.1/2. Also that the steering arms are different. I'll check my stock early rack arms to see if there is any benefit from going down the early rack route.