Evening Daggers,
This oil filler will clear the bonnet when used on a standard steel rocker cover. No need to braze.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-MG-MIDGET ... 3a9b991eb9
Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
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Westfield 129
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Re: Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
That one went right through the bonnet on my early car. Even when flattened, it was still in hard contact.
The problem is that the filler tube is too tall, especially if it has a vent tube attached to it.
This is not a problem on all of the cars, but seems to be common on the early ones. The later, thick body is a bit taller over the engine. On the 4 I have worked on, the bonnet cleared the cast rocker cover, which is slightly taller than the standard rocker cover.
Occasionally, re mounting the front bonnet hinge plates can fix the clearance problem. The bonnets were not trimmed uniformally, so the fit might vary from car to car.
The problem is that the filler tube is too tall, especially if it has a vent tube attached to it.
This is not a problem on all of the cars, but seems to be common on the early ones. The later, thick body is a bit taller over the engine. On the 4 I have worked on, the bonnet cleared the cast rocker cover, which is slightly taller than the standard rocker cover.
Occasionally, re mounting the front bonnet hinge plates can fix the clearance problem. The bonnets were not trimmed uniformally, so the fit might vary from car to car.
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jonclancy
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- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
Thanks for the clarification, Jan. Seems there is a wide variation of bonnet heights. I have about 1cm of clearance with that exact cap on my car.
The blanked and crackle-finished rocker cover in Malc's pic looks great and would provide the most clearance.
The blanked and crackle-finished rocker cover in Malc's pic looks great and would provide the most clearance.
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
Hi Folks!
Here is a long overdue update...
I've dry fitted the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Many thanks to Ben for the maniflow exhaust manifold - much better than the WSC item!
OK - pics tell a story better than words. The standard Maniflow midget inlet has some angle on it. I'll need to get my angle gauge on it, but it looks to be 30 deg or more.
There is around 2cm of damper above the level of the oil filler. As I mentioned earlier, the oil filler clears the bonnet on my car.
As I see it, I have two options:
1. Leave the manifold as it is and fit a small, ally, blister that I have found on eBay. It looks high quality, and is affordable.
2. Have Maniflow make a Westfield XI spec inlet. It'll be better to swap the stock Midget manifold I purchased from them, rather than try to adjust the stock item.
Issues identified are that while there is room for the K&N inside the chassis rails, once the carb is swung more horizontal, there is less clearance from the exhaust manifold. Not sure if there is even enough room there to add exhaust wrap at the moment!!
Thoughts and comments welcomed. I'll have my starter valve O-rings in a couple of days, so, bar this adjustment to the inlet/bonnet, and painting the manifolds, I'm not a million miles away from first start! Finally!
Here are the pics:
Here is a long overdue update...
I've dry fitted the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Many thanks to Ben for the maniflow exhaust manifold - much better than the WSC item!
OK - pics tell a story better than words. The standard Maniflow midget inlet has some angle on it. I'll need to get my angle gauge on it, but it looks to be 30 deg or more.
There is around 2cm of damper above the level of the oil filler. As I mentioned earlier, the oil filler clears the bonnet on my car.
As I see it, I have two options:
1. Leave the manifold as it is and fit a small, ally, blister that I have found on eBay. It looks high quality, and is affordable.
2. Have Maniflow make a Westfield XI spec inlet. It'll be better to swap the stock Midget manifold I purchased from them, rather than try to adjust the stock item.
Issues identified are that while there is room for the K&N inside the chassis rails, once the carb is swung more horizontal, there is less clearance from the exhaust manifold. Not sure if there is even enough room there to add exhaust wrap at the moment!!
Thoughts and comments welcomed. I'll have my starter valve O-rings in a couple of days, so, bar this adjustment to the inlet/bonnet, and painting the manifolds, I'm not a million miles away from first start! Finally!
Here are the pics:
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
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jonclancy
- Posts: 946
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:30 pm
Re: Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
And here is a pic of the blister I was considering:
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Westfield 129
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- Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:20 am
Re: Will a HIF44 fit under the bonnet ?
From my own experience with not less than 4 Maniflow exhaust manifolds when installed on the W11:
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, WRAP THE MANIFLOW EXHAUST MANIFOLD. It will crack at the "y" in short order (under 2000 miles). These manifolds are nicely crafted, and fit well, but they are made of cheap, thin turbing, and always fracture around the weld.
You will know that this has happened when you get that "Snap, Crackle, Pop" from the exhaust when you back off. You wont see the problem as the header is wrapped, and it wont be visible until the header wrap has burned away when the crack widens enough to cause a real hazard.
Also, you may find yourself getting unusually fatigued when driving the car, a symptom of CO poisoning.
The sad part is that they fracture even if the header is not wrapped, though it takes about three times the mileage. I inspect mine prior to every drive. It now has several welds in the "Y".
The cracking has occurred with an unpainted manifold, one that was painted with high temp paint, and one that was ceramic coated. All fractured at the same place, and had to be TIG welded. MIG welding didn't last very long... It happened on more than one car. Some cars had more than one Maniflow fail (my own has had two in the last 5 years). Cracking occurs regardless of the type of muffler mounting, or even if a second mount is installed in the engine compartment.
They crack if used with s slip joint to the exhaust pipe, or with a bolted flange, or V clamp.
The fuel/air mistures were ideal, and the engines put out around 120 HP or more. No other parts suffered or failed. One of the engines has over 20,000 miles on it, and is on its second Maniflow exhaust header.
So far, only my RHD car's Maniflow has lasted more than 6000 miles. It was never wrapped, and was coated prior to installation. The pipes were TIG welded (modified to fit within the chassis). The carburetor setup is the same as my own car, using a 6" specially ordered intake, with a sheet alloy heat shield attached to studs welded to the center branch of the exhaust manifold. I would suggest the same setup to anyone with the Maniflow header.
The best way to extend the life of the header is to make a heat shield of aluminum or stainless steel rather than wrap the header.
One of my projects is to duplicate the Maniflow in stainless steel tubing, which should fix the problem. I may have to buy my own TIG welder to do this, but the cost would be worth it.
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, WRAP THE MANIFLOW EXHAUST MANIFOLD. It will crack at the "y" in short order (under 2000 miles). These manifolds are nicely crafted, and fit well, but they are made of cheap, thin turbing, and always fracture around the weld.
You will know that this has happened when you get that "Snap, Crackle, Pop" from the exhaust when you back off. You wont see the problem as the header is wrapped, and it wont be visible until the header wrap has burned away when the crack widens enough to cause a real hazard.
Also, you may find yourself getting unusually fatigued when driving the car, a symptom of CO poisoning.
The sad part is that they fracture even if the header is not wrapped, though it takes about three times the mileage. I inspect mine prior to every drive. It now has several welds in the "Y".
The cracking has occurred with an unpainted manifold, one that was painted with high temp paint, and one that was ceramic coated. All fractured at the same place, and had to be TIG welded. MIG welding didn't last very long... It happened on more than one car. Some cars had more than one Maniflow fail (my own has had two in the last 5 years). Cracking occurs regardless of the type of muffler mounting, or even if a second mount is installed in the engine compartment.
They crack if used with s slip joint to the exhaust pipe, or with a bolted flange, or V clamp.
The fuel/air mistures were ideal, and the engines put out around 120 HP or more. No other parts suffered or failed. One of the engines has over 20,000 miles on it, and is on its second Maniflow exhaust header.
So far, only my RHD car's Maniflow has lasted more than 6000 miles. It was never wrapped, and was coated prior to installation. The pipes were TIG welded (modified to fit within the chassis). The carburetor setup is the same as my own car, using a 6" specially ordered intake, with a sheet alloy heat shield attached to studs welded to the center branch of the exhaust manifold. I would suggest the same setup to anyone with the Maniflow header.
The best way to extend the life of the header is to make a heat shield of aluminum or stainless steel rather than wrap the header.
One of my projects is to duplicate the Maniflow in stainless steel tubing, which should fix the problem. I may have to buy my own TIG welder to do this, but the cost would be worth it.