Gearbox X member

[Daggers-xi]

Hi All,
Have been unpacking my kit and trying to understand how the gearbox X member is fitted.
All I seem to have is a 8"x4" plate with angled sides and drilled with 4 holes that match holes drilled in chassis. Do you drill this plate once the gearbox is fitted to suit the modified midget X member?
I have looked but can't find any photo online that shows the gearbox mount fitted to the chassis.
Daggers

[Westfield 129]

For the Type 9, you don't have to use the cross member plate (that's for Ribcase and Datsun transmissions). The hole(s) that you drill to mount the T9 will be in the welded plate already in the car, as the T9 mount is farther aft in the chassis. You will have to "trim" (carve up, actually) the transmission mount to fit within the chassis prior to finally bolting down the transmission.(several trial fits may be necessary. This is actually easier than it sounds). I have some suggestions for this, but I will wait until you get to the point of installing the engine and drive train. It is possible that you may come up with a better solution than the one I used. Your transmission mount may fit better than the one supplied with my kit...

And, if the latest plate is now removable... Well, your job is far easier.

Once you start building, you will see that there are a lot of small bits of information that are missing from the "manual". Remember, the manual is a private enterprise, and not done by Westfield. There are a couple of errors in the manual, including the routing of the rear brake rods once the rear suspension is installed.

If you need pictures of any part of the build, let me know. My W11 Forum (westyxiownersbuildersdrivers at Yahoo) has a complete build of a RHD car with twin master cylinder brakes, and a couple of our members partial builds (so far). One of our members has just about finished his car.

Most of the questions you might have will be answered once you get the chassis together and on the ground.

Fortunately, the build of the rolling chassis goes quickly, and if you have all of the donor parts prepped, you can have the car on the ground in a weekend, or in two weeks of spare time work. Really, the brake lines take the longest, and require the most thought.

I work at home, and check my E mail often. 8 hours behind you, should you have a question that the nice fellows at Westfield can't answer.

[Daggers-xi]

I am using the standard Midget 1275 ribcase 4 speed. If there are any photos of the modified Midget cross member fitted to the supplied plate I would be greatful. I. Just thought that this flat plate would have been pre- drilled to accept the modified Midget X-member as shown in the assembly book.
Thank you for your reply 129, sorry for calling you 129 but don't know your name.
Daggers

[Daggers-xi]

[attachment=0]image.jpg[/attachment]
Photo of steel plate X-member drilled for chassis only and two as yet unidentified alloy brackets from latest XI kit of parts.
Would like to see a photo of the plate X-member installed in chassis with gearbox mounting attached if possible.
Daggers

[Splat]

Over the past few years I've disassembled and rebuilt every inch of my 2006 car and I haven't a clue as to what they are. And, sorry but mine too has a T9 'box. Congratulations, good luck, enjoy the build and keep us informed. And I don't know where you are but you're more than welcome to paw over mine in Andover if you need inspiration at any time (see the "photos" thread, currently on page two of "induction noise", I think).

ATB

Simon

[Daggers-xi]

Thanks for the offer Simon, I'm between Portsmouth and Southampton so I may well take you on the offer in the new year. Once I work out which bolt goes where.
Daggers

[Splat]

Mine was the fifth of five built by the then-factory test driver. He had a race preparation shop and had got the build down pat by number five. But it was built as a commercial enterprise for it's first owner, so many of the internals hadn't been overhauled when they should have. Add to that the first owner being totally mechanically unsympathetic and an aspiring racing driver, and it was rather ratty when I bought it at just three years old. So I've rebuilt everything! But the initial construction is certainly worthy of inspection as it was, after all, built by a professional race prep shop. So bring a digital camera and take loads of photos.

And there are certainly several options that you ought to consider if you're planning to build a road car to actually use! The T9 five speed box transforms the car if you plan anything longer than the odd local blast. Mine cruises at a steady 80-90mph and probably tops out at about 120 with the 3.9 diff, which also gives it great step-off. Also, check out the threads on the forum on long shocks (and setting-up the suspension bushes). Jan's (129) original suggestions have proven spot-on. I swapped to the long travel Protech shocks last winter (with a little mod required to the floor-pan) and it transformed the car. It was (in hind sight) quite horrid before, but a (relative) pleasure to drive afterwards. Webber 45 on a long (7"?) Maniflow intake seams an almost universal fitment to the most recent cars, and it certainly works with mine. My 1320cc motor makes 103bhp on Slark's (apparently quite accurate (many aren't!)) dyno. Mine also runs Peter May hardened drive shafts (a must for me, as he produces spline-drive shafts for the steel-wheel axle casing and I suffered an early disaster with one of the wire wheel conversion kits when I lost a wheel on the road!) and 9" front brakes with MGB callipers.

[Westfield 129]

The two box shaped parts look like motor mounts. They might be listed on your parts inventory sheet.

The flat plate is the mount plate for the ribcase transmission. You don't fit it unless you need it to hold the transmission into the chassis.

Remember, this is a "kit car" and not everything is done for you. You may have to drill the odd hole or two to get things to fit properly.

I built one of the first new production cars around '06 for the distributor here in the US, and I have found that there have been small changes along the way with subsequent late chassis I have worked on. Among the changes was to a "universal" chassis that would accept both the Type 9 and the ribcase, using the welded in plate for the longer T9, and the bolt in plate for the ribcase, Datsun 210 5 speed or Toyota 5 speed.

There are weldments fitted to the chassis to bolt on the mount plate. I suggest using larger bolts, and threading the chassis fittings to eliminate some extra fasteners, and the need to reach down the tunnel to tighten up the bolts. I also recommend threading the steering column mounts in the chassis at the panel as well. Much easier assembly... Fewer fasteners to deal with.

As you put the car on the work stands and start to attach the suspension, fit the brake lines and hand brake, things will come into sharper focus. It's not brain surgery. 'Pretty simple car.

As for more power, and the 5 speed... Well, if you can't afford more power, try to find a way to get a 5 speed into the car. It will save you a premature rebuild, and allow you to really enjoy the high speed cruise that the car can afford. Mine has a 3.9 final drive, 186/70 tires and cruises at 80 mph at an engine saving 3700 RPM, 40 mpg.

If you do add power, figure on getting an LSD and a pair of Peter May race axles. The difference in cornering and corner exit is amazing. Add the longer dampers, and you have a proper race car that is actually street useful. Quick tip: you can use the Westfield supplied rear dampers up front (with smaller diameter springs) and just get a set of longer GAZs dampers for the rear. Cut out a hole for the diff to fall through, and you have a much better riding and handling W11. Your body will love you for it, as will your passengers!

I like to use a 6" manifold for the Weber DCOE, but a 7" is probably better. Can't hurt!

[Si Richards]

I still haven't worked out what the alloy box pieces are as they didnt seem strong enough for engine mounts. I have the midget box and used that plate to mount my gearbox using the original MG mount slightly modified. It was a fiddly job but now it's in it works a treat.

Hope your having fun with the build.

Cheers
Si

[Daggers-xi]

Jan,
I can well understand the amount of work/rework that will be required. Although I have concentrated on car restoration myself and not built a kit car before I have produced many special fabricated and machined parts for and helped friends build kit cars and hot rods over the years.
What confused me regarding the plate was the statement in the manual "chassis already has a plate welded in place ready to accept the modified Midget gearbox mount" from now on I won't take any statement from now as fact.
Si do you have a photo of your midget mount installed in chassis? it was also great to see your web updated.

All the best
Daggers