Uprated starter motor / alternator

[sgrant]

My battery finally expired in the queue 300 yards from the car park at Goodwood this weekend. I knew it was coming, but stupidly didn't do anything about it beforehand. A jump start to get there, and a push start to get me home. So, I replaced the battery (for those in the UK, Halfords sell one with the same footprint, same rating, although it's a bit taller and the terminals are the other side of the battery, so I needed to turn it around to get the cables to fit), and I've replaced the connector to the back of the alternator, which wasn't on particularly firmly and - I assume - was the source of the problem.

So, I plan to fit a 12v charging point this week, so I can keep it on a conditioner. Whilst I'm at it, I was wondering what y'all thought about whether an uprated alternator and/or starter motor was worth investigating? Has anyone fitted either, or is the view that it's not neccesary?

Many thanks,

stephen

[Mknight702]

I've got the geared starter motor, it's a good bit smaller and lighter than the stock unit and whizzes the engine over in comparison.

The only issues I had were:-

1) The mounting bracket fouled the pedal box. This was fixed by unscrewing 2 cap head bolts, rotating the mounting bracket and re drilling the holes for the cap heads.

2) As a result of the above, the cable from the motor to the solonoid fouled the block and shorted out, This was fixed by rerouting the cable the opposite side, however, more careful measuring before redrilling (see 1) may have helped!

FYI, the starter kits all seem to use the same motor but just with a different aluminium mounting bracket, I was a little suprised when I compared the cap head bolts to the mounting bolts for the starter, circa 10mm bolts for the mounting to engine backplate/bell housing, but only ~6mm for the starter to mounting!

I've also got a newer alternator and not the dynamo, but this was only because I went to poly vee belt. The alternator required some changes to the wiring at the voltage regulator, but I got that from the Web. Relatively simple and I've not had any problems. (and if anyone was going to get any it would be me!)

[Splat]

First post here!!

Stephen, were you following a pair of VW vans? I was really hoping to bring my freshly rebuilt W11 to Goodwood this weekend, but failed at the last moment. It's a long and complicated story, but inexplicably the engine is only running on cylinders 2 and 3, and with 30 degrees of advance at idle! Nobody seems able to fathom this one out. If that was you, then I was sick with envy about six cars back in an Avantime. Finally found your car in the classics park by looking for the vans first and wondered why you were about ten cars removed. All's now clear..........

I too run an alternator (easy mod) and the same hi-torque starter. And I too had to remove the mounting plate and re-drill. This I did very successfully (albeit carefully) with a handheld power-drill. Starting of the high compression engine is now a doddle. I use a small gel battery, laid on it's side, with a battery charger wired in, with the connector hidden within the rear wheel-arch.

[sgrant]

Hi, and welcome!!

Not sure if I was following a VW van, to be honest - it's all a bit of a blur now! Mine is a green XI and was parked in the GRRC car park, just behind a Ferrari Dino, and next to a truly georgeous 356 in rally trim....I didn't see any other XI's there, atlhough I didn't look in the other car parks.

I might look into the high-torque starter, since it sounds reasonably straight forward. I assume that I already have an alternator rather than a dyno...

I was thinking of locating the charging point in the floor of the scuttle, pointing down, in the passenger side, and then either picking up the 12v at the engine-bay end of the lead that goes back to the starter motor, or running a new pair of leads down the transmission tunnel back to the battery. I did think about the rear wheel arch, but I had assumed it would all get very wet around there when driving in the rain?

stephen

[Splat]

I bought a very un-fancy battery conditioner from Halfords. It comes with two sets of leads: croc-clips for a temporary fit and spade connectors for a more permanent installation to the battery terminals. The other end of the lead is a slim and neat rubberised plug with a tight-fitting integral cap to keep the socket dry. Having the plug almost at ground level results in the lead from the pleasingly small transformer running on the floor rather than at waist height. It's a personal thing but contrary to what you might think, I find that it's less of a trip-risk there! It also allows the car to remain plugged-in whilst wearing its full indoor cover.

As for Goodwood, I too was at the front of the GRRC parking area on Saturday but didn't see any 11s there. The one we followed in was in the classic (B) carpark. BRG with a yellow stripe, Team Lotus script, red interior and headrest and gunmetal minilites. Anyone here?

[Pluscat]

I use a modern alternator, being the Moss kit for the MG Midget. It works well in my W11, the kit is complete with all the parts suplied, and a good instruction manual.

[Westfield 129]

I have that same alternator, but it doesn't last long, and is big and heavy. The rectifiers don't last long, at least not on my cars.

When that one fails, get one of the small Nippon Denso alternators. Half the weight, twice the power. You can find them at the breakers for a very low price, and they last forever. Rebuild kits are readily available, and inexpensive. One from a Suzuki Samurai will work perfectly with little modification.

Here in the 'States, we use starters from "British Starters". These are modified Honda starters. Compact and lighter than the old Lucas, with a proper engagement of the starter gear. The manufacturer is Gustafson Machine.

I will run some pictures of my new W11 installation in a couple of weeks.

[sgrant]

Ok, well, looking at that I'm clearly still on the original dynamo.

Time for an upgrade to an alternator methinks.....

[Westfield 129]

Our "British Starters" here have a mount that is drilled in multiple places so that the starter can be clocked without fouling the pedal box. I know this as I have installed a couple in RHD W11s. It fits the RHD chassis with the battery connection straight up. Very convenient.

If you use one of the "mini" (meaning very small, as opposed to being for a "Mini"), you can dispense with the rear bracket, as it only needs to be hung on the water pump, an stabilized with an adjusting strut and a couple of rod ends. Very small and light, as well as being "one wire". A single connection to the battery, warning light and switch connection. Very easy to install. Weight is about half that of the Lucas alternator, and output is nearly doubled. These sell in the US starting at around $80, or about £55. You can pay as much as $235. These are ND built, and quite robust. However, some of the less expensive units do work quite well, and are reliable.

[sgrant]

hmm...ok, thanks. I'm struggling to find anything here that is significantly smaller/lighter/more powerful than the old Lucas units. I've ordered an "uprated" one from minispares ( http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 595&title= ). If it falls to pieces I might post you some money and ask you to send me a better one from the U.S. !

I'll just follow the instructions from Moss on unpicking the control unit and see what happens.....